

Brasserie Georges
Where? Brasserie Georges (Lyon, France) Map Menu
When? Saturday May 13, 2017
Who? Me
Food Style? French
Literally across the road from my hotel is a very large restaurant, capable of sitting hundreds of people. It's very well rated on various websites and I couldn't be bothered walking far for food, so here I am. It's a bit intimidating as the staff to patron ratio is very high at the moment; there's at least 10 waiters...waiting. I'm hoping for something memorable to finish my time in France.
Entree

French Onion Soup with egg yolk and madeira
This first dish says it is prepared in front of me. I'm not sure what to expect. A glass of something is put on my table and I have no idea what it is supposed to be. It almost looks like a lemon honey ginger drink. I hope it's part of the first course.

Well I'm glad I didn't drink it because it's egg yolk and wine, and it's poured into my soup and mixed. That wasn't much preparation at all. The egg cooks in an instant. There's also melted cheese, baguette soaked inside and lots of onions, but I think the wine is perhaps a bit too strong for me. It will be really embarrassing if I get drunk off this soup. Otherwise it's quite good, I love the taste combination of the cheese and onion.
Mains

Rossini-style duck and potatoes with parsley
A plate of duck appears. It smells delicious, all that duck fat is definitely what I am smelling. There is perhaps a bit too much, the sauce tastes quite oily and the skin on the two pieces of breast is a bit soggy, not as crispy as I would have liked. But it's cooked nicely, with pink still on the inside. The foie gras is amazing though, such a beautiful smooth texture, and the potatoes are also masterfully done. The dish really needs a salad to balance the oil and fat though, I don't think I can eat all of the duck skin.
Dessert

Iced nougat with red fruit coulis
I wasn't going to have dessert but I feel like I should have something to rinse the taste of fat out of my mouth, and what better way to do that than with sugar. My iced nougat arrives with a sea of berry coulis. I go to cut a bit off the corner and my heart almost stops when it chips off suddenly, almost flying off the plate. It stops just short of the edge. It's very good though, lots of nut and fruit flavours, and not too sweet. A pleasant way to finish the meal.
Chez Leon
Where? Chez Leon (Vallon-Pont-d'Arc, France) Map
When? Friday May 12, 2017
Who? Me
Food Style? French
I'm famished after a day of kayaking 32km down the Ardeche River. Lunch consisted of a banana and several chocolate chip cookies. I want good food and lots of it.
Entree

Assortment of Ardeche charcuterie
A decent sized plate of charcuterie arrives. It bears much similarity to the platters I got when I was in Italy, sans cheese. I don't care, I dive in. The terrine and meat are great with the baguette, but I'm not sold on the salad dressing. I think it's too strong and doesn't go with the other items on the plate; something light like a vinaigrette would be perfect. I'm feeling far less hangry now, thankfully.
Mains

Joue de Boeuf
A thick, meaty smell is the first thing I notice about the beef cheek. It's from the sauce, and it's absolutely delicious. The meat is a bit tough, but it's so appetising that I'm willing to let that slide. I love the chestnuts on the plate, they've soaked up that amazing sauce. The boiled vegetables are the unfortunate disappointment, I think they're purposefully bland to counterbalance the richness of the sauce.
There is quite a lot of food and I have definitely over ordered, but I have already committed to dessert. Time to get that second stomach into action.
Dessert

Le Coucouru
I can't see the dessert underneath the massive mound of cream. I remove the top half and see the meringue base, a slathering of chestnut jam, and some ice cream. I drizzle a bit of the raspberry coulis on the top and dig in. Wow, that chestnut is amazing. Why haven't more people caught onto this? The dessert is tending towards the sickly sweet side though, the meringue just being that little bit over the top.
I am well and truly stuffed. I think I need to lie down.
Le Coconuts
Where? Le Coconuts (Vallon-Pont-d'Arc, France) Map
When? Thursday May 11, 2017
Who? Me
Food Style? Touristy Pub
Vallon Pont d'Arc is a super small town, mainly here to cater for the tourists wanting to explore the Ardeche Gorges. As a result, I expect a lot of these restaurants to be quite touristy, and with a name like "The Coconuts", I'm not expecting much at all. But I'm here because I feel like a burger, and a burger I shall be ordering.
Burger

Hamburger Coconuts - potatoes, steak, green salad, goat's cheese
I have eaten many burgers in my lifetime but even I was surprised when this came out. I know the French word for potato so I knew it would be present, I was not expecting the buns to be hash browns. I don't think I've ever had that before. I had a breakfast burger from Burgerfuel with a hash brown in it, but this is ridiculous. It is also quite delicious and juicy, with the beef patty cooked medium rare and the cheese coming through nicely. It's completely lacking greens but I suppose the salad and salsa on the side makes up for that. I think given all the physical activity I'm doing tomorrow, it's perfectly acceptable to be carb loading like this.
L'Epice and Love
Where? L'Epice and Love (Avignon, France) Map
When? Wednesday May 10, 2017
Who? Me
Food Style? French
Though the name is a strange combination of Franglaise, this little cosy restaurant is highly rated for its Provençal food. It holds at most 20 people, so I'm here right on opening time to ensure I get a table. The menu is handwritten and not only am I struggling to decipher the handwriting, I'm also struggling to understand the words. Thankfully the waitress speaks English, and she very helpfully explains everything to me.
Entree

Tartine au chèvre with strawberry honey almonds
That lovely aroma of toasted almonds is the first thing I notice. The bread is layered with strawberry jam and honey, and the sweetness gives way to the savoury of the cheese as I bite into it. It's like eating cheese and quince with crackers. It's delicious and very homely. The salad is dressed with a light honey sauce and the toasted almonds give it that little bit of depth. For future reference, I would personally be happy if every salad I had contained toasted almonds.
Mains

Sauté de porc a la Provençal
The mains comes out and it's smaller than I was expecting, and also not quite what I had pictured in my mind. It's essentially a stew, possibly bordering a soup, but at least the flavour is there. Again, it has that homely feel to it, but I probably wouldn't order this again.
Dessert

Parfait au chocolat noir
Again that toasted almond smell fills the air. The parfait has a perfect texture, so soft and moist. It's incredibly rich but that little bit of cream and custard balances it out perfectly. This was the best dish tonight.
As I pay, I tell the owner that the dessert was delicious, and she remarks that she forgot to put it on the bill so it's free. Yuss!
Fou de Fafa
Where? Fou de Fafa (Avignon, France) Map
When? Tuesday May 9, 2017
Who? Me and a bunch of other Flight of the Conchords fans
Food Style? French
I am so amused by this place. Fou de Fafa doesn't mean anything in French, but it is of course, a famous Flight of the Conchords song where they sing random French words for two minutes. I have to eat here. The lovely owner speaks impeccable English (she's from Eastbourne in the U.K.) and I ask if the restaurant is named after the song. It totally is. I tell her I'm from Wellington and I've seen Bret and Jermaine walking around before. She tells me she visited it two years ago and loved it. Tres bien!
Amuse bouche

The amuse bouche is sour cream, chives and anchovies. It reminds me of Grainwaves without the texture.
Entree

Pan fried calamari with mango, coriander and cashew nuts
The pan fried squid smells and tastes great. There's lots of complementing flavours here, with the mango, tomato and cashew making a very delicious sauce. The squid is fractionally overdone and I wish the cashews were roasted and crunchy, but this tastes great and I can tell the ingredients are of good quality.
Mains

Pan fried duck breast with strawberry and balsamic vinegar, fresh salad and mashed potatoes
The duck comes out. It smells very strongly of strawberry, I hope it isn't actually as overpowering. The meat is cooked perfectly, a little pink in the middle, but most importantly, delicious crispy skin. I try the sauce next. It tastes quite like strawberry jam with a splash of balsamic and generic savoury. It's odd. When I eat it with the duck though, it's very good, with the saltiness balancing the sweetness perfectly. The sauce goes even better with the vegetables. I think perhaps strawberry isn't the fruit I would have paired with duck - I've had plum and orange work well before.
Dessert

Banoffee Pie with banana, caramel and whipped cream
It's certainly not the epic portion that Strawberry Fare used to serve, but the balance of flavours is absolutely perfect. The caramel isn't sickly sweet at all, it has a bit of depth to its flavour. I don't feel overly gross after this either.
What a great meal! I hope one day Bret and Jermaine will visit this restaurant. The owner has extended her warmest invitation to them and says they will dine for free if they make it. I've used the power of Two Degrees of Separation in New Zealand to see if I can get the word out!
L'Entrecote
Where? L'Entrecote (Toulouse, France) Map Menu
When? Monday May 8, 2017
Who? Me
Food Style? French Steakhouse
The restaurant hasn't opened yet but there is a line of people outside waiting to get in. The reviews for this place swing wildly between "this is the best steak ever" and "I can't believe I waited in line for this rubbish", so I'm here to see for myself, and also partially because I want more steak since last night's was so small. They have one dish at this restaurant - l'entrecôte - so they better do it well!
The important question is how do I want my steak cooked. In French, the term "medium rare" doesn't quite translate perfectly. Medium rare is somewhere around Saignant (bloody, slightly less rare than Bleu) and À Point (perfectly cooked, similar to how the Italians say al dente for their pasta). À Point will still be quite pink on the inside, erring to rare more than medium, but probably slightly more medium than Saignant. I've chosen À Point, hopefully my pronunciation is good enough!
Entree

Salad with nuts
A simple salad of lettuce and walnut begins the meal. Nice and crispy, and well dressed. All the salads in France are well dressed. Walnuts are on point.
Mains

Steak with fries and our famous sauce
My steak and fries appear. I'm slightly sad about the portion size...

But then the rest of the steak appears. We're good. This is decent. The meat is superb, cooked perfectly - à point! - with a nice pink hue in the middle. It's covered in a delicious sauce, which I hear is a closely guarded secret in the restaurant. It's full of oil and garlic, perhaps with a bit of mustard or ginger, but it works very well with both the meat and the fries, and amazingly with the baguette on the side.
I am well sated. That was a good steak! I am coaxed into dessert by the waitress (not really). I've chosen the chocolate vacherin and I don't know what that is. The waitress tries her best to explain it, and there's meringue, chocolate sauce, praline and ice cream. Sweet, sounds good! I'll give it a go.
Dessert

Le vacherin au chocolat
This hilariously massive tower of meringue and chocolate appears. I'm so amused that I literally laugh out loud. It's very rich and sweet but after a single glass of that delicious Bordeaux Rouge, I do not care. I power through, it's so much. A little kid walks by and stares at the dessert with his mouth wide open. I hope you get one too, random little kid.
Petit Mignon
Where? Petit Mignon (Bordeaux, France) Map
When? Sunday May 7, 2017
Who? Zamora and Eric
Food Style? French
I need steak. I've come back from a half day trip around some wineries and I've been drinking red wine all afternoon. I'm with a couple of people from the tour who have agreed to humour my steak needs. I've gone for a three course menu and a glass of local red. The waitress doesn't speak English and my friends don't speak French, so my rudimentary French is up to the test again.
Entree

Pané de chevre with honey and mesclun salad
Chevre is goat's cheese, usually baked. It's delicious. Crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, with tasty dressed greens. It's simple but very well done.
Mains

Faux filet with homemade fries and Corsican wine sauce
The steak is excellent. It has that lovely grilled flavour and the sauce is perfect. The fries are nicely cooked and crispy, and even the salad is well dressed. My only criticism is the steak is so small - I was hoping for something more substantial.
Dessert

Tarte au citron
The tarte au citron is a bit goopy, not really meringue like at all. The biscuit base is nicely caramelised. It's very sweet but at least the lemon is pleasant. Definitely the weakest part of the meal but still enjoyable.
Cafe du Port
Where? Cafe du Port (Bordeaux, France) Map Menu
When? Saturday May 6, 2017
Who? Me
Food Style? French
I arrived in Bordeaux quite late and needed to do laundry, so by the time all of that finished, I was quite hungry and needed food fast. Fortunately, on the way back to the hotel, there was Cafe du Port, sporting a lovely view of the river and cathedral right by Pont de Pierre, and even more fortunately, they have a Bordeaux must-eat on the menu - oysters!
Entree

Oysters
They are so good that I don't even pause to write about them. The six oysters vanish in the blink of an eye; smooth, creamy, and delightfully juicy with a few drops of lemon juice. I would have easily eaten 24 more if I was made of money.
Mains

Rack of lamb with baby vegetables and ginger sauce
A large plate of lamb arrives. It smells incredible and the taste matches - perfectly cooked, soft and succulent meat, delicious rendered fat, and a rich appetising sauce. Even the roasted root vegetables on the side are worth mentioning; they've been drizzled with olive oil and they're sweet and full of flavour, a sign of good produce. Any leftover meat on the bone is torn away savagely by my teeth; I hope this isn't too much of a faux pas. Any leftover sauce is wiped away with a slice of bread. I have enjoyed this immensely.
I wasn't going to have dessert but after a meal like that, I have to. I choose the unpronounceable one, which means "soft", but really I have no idea what it is.
Dessert

Moelleux with almonds, apricots and pistachio ice cream
It turns out it's a very moist but dense cake. The raspberry coulis is well balanced and I like the inclusion of the pistachio nuts, but my favourite thing on the plate is the pistachio ice cream. It's an unusual combination but pistachio and raspberry goes quite well. An excellent meal!
Le Nouveau Monde
Where? Le Nouveau Monde (Nantes, France) Map Menu
When? Friday May 5, 2017
Who? Me
Food Style? French Fine Dining
Named in honour of Jules Verne, who was born in this building in 1828, Le Nouveau Monde is an upmarket restaurant in central Nantes that serves some classic Nantais cuisine. Their website listed frogs legs on the menu but unfortunately they aren't serving it today - I would have been so keen otherwise. I've gone for a three course meal from the Jules Verne Menu, which is €29.
Entree

Double tartare with salmon, yellowfin tuna and citron confit vinaigrette
The salmon and yellowfin tuna tartare arrives. It's got a delicate, smooth and creamy texture with lots of great flavours. The citrus is subtle but pairs perfectly with the fish. I think it's a pretty generous portion, given the quality of the ingredients. A very good start!
Mains

Cod with Nantais butter
The cod arrives with beautiful orange streaks of pumpkin and a side plate of creamy artichoke purée. The fish is cooked to perfection, smooth white flesh that falls nicely when I slice my knife through it. The Nantais butter is rich and has a sprinkling of lemon in it, and I'm happily soaking the baguette in the leftover sauce and purée. Another excellent dish.
Dessert

Chocolate dome with pistachio sand and hazelnut ice cream
Finally the chocolate dome is here. Wow. Decadent and so, so wonderfully rich, the chocolate mousse and pistachio biscuit base brings an appreciative smile to my face. It has crunch, it has depth, it is very well made - the glaze is so smooth and reflective I can see the blue sky outside on the surface of the dome. It reminds me very much of Louis Sergeant back home in Wellington.
Definitely the best meal I've had so far in France. The skill and finesse of the chef is evident in every dish served tonight, the menu is well thought out and presented immaculately. Parfait!
Margaux
Where? Margaux (Saint Malo, France) Map Menu
When? Thursday May 4, 2017
Who? Me
Food Style? Crepes and Galettes
The little town of St Malo is a beautiful walled establishment, overlooking several islands in a section of the English Channel that sparkles emerald green in the sun. It's known for its savoury crepes, or for galette, as well as its sweet ones. I've chosen a little cafe with no English translations called Margaux for a quick lunch, because I need to be back at the bus soon.
I chose the Enzo. I was very interested in the "canard fumé", which, without looking it up, I hope is smoked duck.
Galette

Enzo - smoked duck breast, pear, roquefort and balsamic reduction
Holy moly. It is absolutely delicious. And my translation is also correct. The smoked duck and the blue cheese, beautifully rich ingredients, perfectly balanced by the sweet poached pear and a slight hint of the balsamic reduction. The for galette is crispy, not soft like a crepe. I am very impressed.
Chez Laurette
Where? Chez Laurette (Honfleur, France) Map Menu
When? Wednesday May 3, 2017
Who? Me
Food Style? French
Honfleur is a small town right at the mouth of the river Seine. The waterfront area is a bit touristy so I've tried to go into the back alleys to get something with a hint of authenticity and also something that isn't ludicrously expensive. This place says "cuisine actuelle" so I hope they live up to that. I've chosen mussels in white wine sauce with fries since seafood is in abundance at this coastal town.
Mains

Moules à la marinière - mussels with white wine, parsley and onion
I need to get used to the fact that mussels in Europe aren't the fat juicy green lipped variety from New Zealand, which makes me slightly sad. Nevertheless, the mussels taste great, lots of onion and parsley and a hint of white wine, but some of them are a bit gritty, probably with a bit of sand. It's not on the same level as my favourite moules avec frites from Leuven, the Belgian beer cafe in Wellington, but it's not bad.
I finally get to the sauce at the bottom. It's maybe a bit watered down, and doesn't taste very good with the baguette. It's missing sweetness, like maybe a bit of citrus to balance out the sourness of the white wine.
Aux Tonneaux des Halles
Where? Aux Tonneaux des Halles (1st Arrondissement, Paris, France) Map Menu
When? Tuesday May 2, 2017
Who? Me
Food Style? French Bistro
I purchased some desserts from a patassier near Chatelet. As I walked back to the train station, I noticed a pedestrian mall filled with busy eateries, so I pulled out Yelp and got it to recommend a place, so here I am at Aux Tonneaux. There isn't a hint of English anywhere; there's locals and a menu completely in French. I thought about ordering the 1kg côte de boeuf but it was probably a bit on the expensive side at €60. Instead I've ordered the terrine and the duck confit, two very French dishes, and a glass of rosé.
Entree

La Terrine du Chef
The terrine is very tasty, but not the smoothest terrine I've ever had. I'm guessing it's chicken, just because that's the first thing that came to mind when I tasted it. It goes so well with the baguette and pickled red onion. The salad has been dressed with a hint of mustard (I hope it's from Dijon!) and I love it.
Mains

Confit de Canard
An impressive leg of duck arrives. It smells delightful. First bite - oh wow. That flavour. The meat is a tad dry and the skin isn't very crispy but the flavour is spot on, rich with onions and herbs. I can hear Manu Feidel's words in my head though - "where is the sauce!" - I wish there was more gravy so I can eat it with the bread. It's so delicious.
Le Chalet de Neuilly
Where? Le Chalet de Neuilly (Neuilly-sur-Seine, Paris, France) Map Menu
When? Tuesday May 2, 2017
Who? Priscilla
Food Style? Swiss
I'm here with my friend (and somewhat very distantly related cousin) Priscilla. I told her I wanted to try raclette, after hearing my French friends rave about it. I've never tried anything like this before, but I'm very excited because this feels so authentically French; it is, however, of Swiss origin, which makes sense given the skiing apparatus and other chalet-like decorations around the restaurant.
So, then, what is it?
Raclette with assorted charcuterie, grilled potatoes and pickles
A massive plate of charcuterie arrives for each of us, as well as some bread, pickles and grilled potatoes. Raclette itself refers to the type of cheese that is usually affixed to a grilling contraption that melts the cheese, and the melted cheese drips onto your plate of food, sort of like a reverse fondue.
The flaps of the grill lift up so you can pause the heat momentarily while you scrape your cheese off the wedge. I'm so enthralled with this; I'm layering it onto the meat, potatoes or bread, or all of the above, at once. It's a really simple concept but executed so well, something the French are very good at in terms of cuisine. I'm so thankful that I've got someone to share this with because there is absolutely no way I could have eaten this much by myself.
Le Comptoir
Where? Le Comptoir (14th Arrondissement, Paris, France) Map Menu
When? Monday May 1, 2017
Who? Me
Food Style? French Bistro
After an 800m evening stroll through the Catacombs of Paris, I'm hungry. Literally outside the exit is this little bistro, with a very upbeat and friendly vibe. I'm feeling super pleased with myself because I ordered everything in French, and even understood when the waiter asked me what I wanted to drink. Let's see if what I get matches what I ordered.
Entree

Wild Burgundy Snails with butter and parsley
Success number one. I have a plate of six escargot. They smell amazing, rich with oil, garlic and herbs. The bread soaks up any remaining sauce, much of which overflows from the shell as I pluck the snail out. The snail itself has a good texture too, it's soft but still has bite. It's really tasty. I'm smiling involuntarily again, as I often do when the food is superb.
Mains

Fish of the Day with French ratatouille and carrot crisps
Success number two. The fish of the day, salmon, with French ratatouille. Again, it smells gorgeous. A rich, hearty stew with lots of flavour and soul, with a perfectly grilled slice of salmon steak. I'm nodding my head after each bite I take. I'm not quite at the level of the food critic in the eponymous Pixar film, who has flashbacks of his childhood where he's eating his Maman's ratatouille, because obviously I never got ratatouille when I was a kid, but I have to say, I am very pleased right now.
Dessert

Creme brûlée with lavender infusion
I have to have dessert. I have ordered a French classic. La creme brûlée parfaite - the perfect creme brûlée - must have a toffee shell that cracks when hit by a spoon, producing a nice thock! sound. The shell on this is perhaps too thin for that, but the lavender infusion is subtle yet incredibly delicious. The texture under the shell however is perfect - solid but smooth without blemish, showing it has been cooked for the right amount of time. This is a very generous serving and it is sure to leave me well and truly satisfied.
C'est delicieux!
Chez Barbara
Where? Chez Barbara (8th Arrondissement, Paris, France) Map
When? Sunday April 30, 2017
Who? Me
Food Style? French
It's a bank holiday, so not many places are open. I'm in the center of town, just off the Champs Elysees, but quite a way down a quiet road that has almost no foot traffic compared to the main road. I've just been to Laduree, which is a very famous patisserie, and have consumed a millefeuille so I'm not too hungry at the moment. I would like to get to the Eiffel Tower soon so I can see it lit up at night, so I've chosen something quick but authentic-sounding.
Entree

Salade Périgourdine
I know you don't normally make friends with salad, but the greens are well dressed with a vinaigrette and the duck is nicely seasoned, with a hint of smokiness. By far the most impressive item on the plate is the foie gras. It was so soft and smooth that it has the consistency of double cream butter. It's delicious.
Le Tais
Where? Le Tais (11th Arrondissement, Paris, France) Map
When? Saturday April 29, 2017
Who? Me
Food Style? Algerian Barbeque
I have no idea where I am. I just wandered down the road from my hotel to see what was open. This place is busy and I have no idea what's going on. My limited Français managed to get me a table but my super confused facial expression prompted the waiter to find someone English speaking.
He explains that they're a grilled meats place and the raw meat is sitting on full display by the window. I can choose what I want and get it grilled on a plate. Okay! This sounds alright! I've ordered a selection of meats and a mixed salad. Other options available on the menu include couscous and lentils, so I'm guessing I'm in a Middle Eastern restaurant - I'm a little far away, they're actually North African.
Entree

House Salad
The mixed salad is quite big. They've provided me with two bottles of unknown liquids so I just pour them on to see what they are. Olive oil and mayonnaise. Great! That's fortunate! I won't eat all of it now; I'll save some for the meat platter.
Mains

Mixed Grill Platter
The meat platter is here. Oh goodness. I chose one chicken, one spicy chicken and one lamb liver kebab, and two lamb cutlets. I go for the chicken first; yum! It's good. Wonderful texture, not dry at all, and full of that lovely smokiness that all grilled meat should have. Next, the lamb liver. Not as tasty as the chicken, but still good, tad too tough. I think it needs to be highly spiced, Momo's Tea in Mt Albert does a good job with theirs. The spicy chicken is unfortunately not spicy, but still tasty. I have to finish the kebabs first so there's space on the plate to cut up the cutlets. They're salted nicely, lots of flavour, but definitely overcooked, perhaps at medium to well. It's still good though, and I'm well satisfied.