Postigo do Carvão
Where? Postigo do Carvão (Ribeira, Porto, Portugal) Map Menu
When? Sunday December 26, 2021
Who? Me
Food Style? Portuguese Seafood
I was supposed to go to a restaurant called Casa Lopes down the road from this but they’re closed (there were people yelling inside but the door was padlocked). I’m in the mood for seafood, specifically cod or “bacalhao” in the native tongue. I’m still kinda full from lunch but I’m hoping I’ll have room for dessert. After being seated, I’ve got a direct view of the kitchen and I can smell that smoky salty aroma of fish being cooked. Yum!
Mains
Bacalhao com Broa: Fried cod, shattered corn bread, sautéed potatoes
Another rustic dish with lots of different colours, it really has that home cooked feel. The cod flakes away beautifully, it’s quite meaty and seasoned very aggressively. I think the orange purée is carrot and the purple one is purple cauliflower, they’re rich and creamy, but do little to cut the intensity of the salt on the plate. I think what they mean by “shattered corn bread” is actually just “breadcrumb coating”.
I honestly don’t understand how these people aren't fat, every meal I’ve had has had humongous portions and I’ve struggled to finish every time. I’m doing that Asian “eat only the meat” thing again to power through, but the salt content of the fish is making it really difficult.
So the reason I wanted to go to Casa Lopes was because of a recommendation by a friend, and that recommendation was for a dessert called molotof. It is essentially a Portuguese caramel meringue, or in other words, a Portuguese pavlova. I do need a brief break from dinner before ordering dessert, but I’m pretty sure I can do this. I’ll have some port as well, it is my final night in Porto after all!
Dessert
Molotof
The molotof here doesn’t have a caramel sauce; instead it’s made with a delicious egg custard, so it’s like I’m eating a pastel de nata with a pavlova and my mind just explodes at the thought. It’s soft and fluffy, and doesn’t have a hard crust like a New Zealand pavlova, but honestly this is the best thing ever. My port choice is the 10 year Krohn Tawny Port, and it’s got a magnificent spicy caramel taste which goes perfectly with dessert.
That was fantastic. I’ve got a nice alcohol buzz, as opposed to feeling completely regretful like last night. Obrigado, Oporto.
Posted by Jeremy at 1:38am on Monday January 17, 2022 :: 0 comments :: 
Abadia do Porto
Where? Abadia do Porto (Bolhao, Porto, Portugal) Map Menu
When? Sunday December 26, 2021
Who? Me
Food Style? Portuguese
The weather is much nicer today and after walking around the riverfront for over two hours, I’m famished. I found this restaurant through a blog, and the fact that it’s on this quiet little alley means it’s probably not going to be a huge tourist trap. It’s very empty at 1pm, but I’m not too concerned about that. Rather, I’m concerned about my alcohol tolerance and whether it’s a good idea to drink this early in the day.
I decide not to. But I have decided on two very Portuguese dishes, octopus in parsley sauce and roasted Iberian pork loin.
Entree
Polvinho em salsa: octopus with parsley sauce
The octopus is absolutely delicious, so soft and tender. There’s really nowhere to hide with this dish, it’s literally octopus, olive oil vinaigrette, onions and parsley, but the combination of flavours is fantastic.
Mains
Lombo de Porco Iberico Assado com Castanhas: Roasted Iberian Pork Loin served with chestnuts, baked potatoes and vegetables
After clearing the octopus away, the waiter asks me if I’m ready for the main course, and having enjoyed the appetiser so much, I happily answer yes. What I was not expecting is three plates of food to be splayed out on the table. One dish of rice, one with boiled vegetables and finally one dish with the pork loin, chestnuts and potatoes. The pork is stunning. I don’t even need a knife to cut through it, it’s so soft I can use my spoon to break it apart. It’s juicy and flavourful, and it feels like a home cooked meal. The sauce is a tad oily, and there’s nothing to balance that out.
There is way too much food for me to eat, and I know it far in advance. I’m going to do that Asian thing where I only eat the most expensive things on the plate. Seriously, this could have easily fed two people.
Posted by Jeremy at 1:25am on Monday January 17, 2022 :: 0 comments ::
O Afonso
Where? O Afonso (Boavista, Porto, Portugal) Map
When? Saturday December 25, 2021
Who? Me
Food Style? Portuguese Sandwiches
Porto’s most famous meal is the francesinha, or “little Frenchie”, a rustic sandwich with various fillings. This cafe, O Afonso, is one of the most famous establishments to serve the francesinha, and as testament to the quality of this place, the left wall is adorned with Anthony Bourdain memorabilia from when he visited, including a plaque immortalising his verdict:
Good Lord, Look at that thing 15/02/2017
While I’m waiting, I’ve opted for the house rosé, a very drinkable, fruity, pink wine. The Douro Valley is famous for rosés as well as port, which I will have to try another day. I can tell this is going to be too much for me already.
Mains
Francesinha
Good lord, look at that thing. The tomato sauce is delicious and hearty, and I love that the fries just soak that up. The sandwich is cheesy and meaty and salty and so comforting, especially since it’s Portuguese “winter” and it’s been raining heavily today. This is a huge amount of food, and I definitely can’t finish all the fries, but this is a great start to Porto cuisine.
I’ve finished my sandwich and I am completely stuffed, I have to pass on half the fries. I’m pretty content to just finish the rosé but suddenly I get a small glass of port on the house and my mind just explodes. I am going to be so sloshed. The port is a wonderful, sweet way to finish the meal, a deep caramel flavour that really hits the spot.
Posted by Jeremy at 1:11am on Monday January 17, 2022 :: 0 comments ::