

Osteria del Tempo Perso Oca
Where? Osteria del Tempo Perso Oca (Campo Marzio, Rome, Italy) Map Menu
When? Thursday June 18, 2026
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
It’s my final night in Rome and I have one more food checkbox: Pompi’s famous tiramisu. It’s a chain store with a branch near the Spagna station, so I’ve chosen an osteria close by. The name apparently translates to Lost Time Goose?! This area is very touristy because I'm right near the Piazza del Popolo, but it’s a lot quieter around the corner. I’m seated outside under the tent, with a gentle summer breeze blowing through and the smell of coffee in the air. Frank Sinatra’s greatest hits is playing, so even though this obviously caters to the tourists, I hope the food is still good. The sparkling water is chilled to an excellent, refreshing temperature, and I'm so impressed that I have to note it down.
I was somewhat keen on the fried squid, but it has the frozen food warning, so I’ve gone for the stuffed zucchini flowers instead. I was also going to get the cacio e pepe, but I need a protein, so I went for the spaghetti with mixed seafood instead, which thankfully doesn’t have the frozen food warning.
Appetiser

Fiori di Zucca Fritti: fried zucchini flower filled with mozzarella cheese and anchovy
It’s actually pretty good. A squirt of lemon juice really brings everything together. I think the batter could be a bit crispier and a tad more seasoned, but I’d happily eat that again.
Mains

Spaghetti ai Frutti di Mare: spaghetti with seafood
It’s taking a while, it’s been 15 minutes since I finished my starters, but it finally arrives and it smells great. There’s a great selection of seafood - mussels, clams, octopus, shrimp and squid. I love sucking the juices out of the shrimp head. They haven’t given me any bread to mop up the sauce, which is unfortunate, because it’s quite nice, buttery and tasty.
I decline dessert because I need to head to Pompi before closing time. I choose a pistachio tiramisu, which comes neatly boxed, and I walk to the Spanish steps to enjoy it. It’s phenomenal. So light and fluffy, with a full layer of crushed pistachios for texture and a strong pistachio flavour. Molte bene!
La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali
Where? La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali (Monti, Rome, Italy) Map Menu
When? Wednesday June 17, 2026
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
They were fully booked when I came here a few days ago, and when I tried to make a reservation online, the website service they were using tried to charge me CAD$5.50 for the privilege of booking, so I literally just walked back to the restaurant and did it in person. Today, I’ve been seated outside where I can watch people walking by, but there’s also the smell of the street and cars, which is mildly unpleasant after the downpour a few hours ago. As I'm sitting, many people have turned up off the street and tried unsuccessfully to obtain a table without reservation, so I feel like I’ve done well for myself.
Appetiser

Bis di Crostini: Crostini combo - chicken liver pâté, parmigiano cheese + lard, seasonal vegetables, pecorino cheese
I love chicken liver pâté, so I went for the crostini. There’s also a vegetable one, which is healthy if I forget there’s lard. The pâté is heaped generously on the toasted bread, and it is wonderfully rich and tasty. The vegetable one has a lot of cheese and what looks to be fat from a slice of prosciutto, so it also tastes excellent. Any spillage of oil, pâté or sauce has been duly mopped up, and my plate is spotless.
Mains

Filetto di Pescato del Giorno: Catch of the day with potato crust and sun dried tomatoes
The catch of the day is sea bass, also known in Italy as branzino, a delicate, white fish with a sweet flavour and flaky texture. This, however, is not what I was expecting. I mean, you can't even see the fish. If anything, it should be served on top of the potatoes with the tomatoes and olives on top of that, or to the side. It’s very hot, but it is tasty and the tomato sauce helps to accentuate the natural sweetness, while the olives provide the salinity. I do wonder if it’s perhaps a bit dry because of the high heat continuing to cook it while I’m eating. It's fine but just a bit basic.
Dessert

Crema Fredda di Zabaione: Cold zabaione custard (egg yolks, sugar and Marsala wine), warm dark chocolate sauce
I am a sucker for custard and I've never tried this Italian take on it, so I'm looking forward to giving it a go. Oh man it’s good. The sugar crystals and Marsala wine are prominent, while the chocolate gives it that hint of richness and bitterness. The biscotti provide a textural element to enjoy the custard. I love the way the pieces just sink slowly after being placed on the surface. Though the portion seems small, it’s very rich and filling, and despite my talents, I dare not try to lick the martini glass clean.
That was a good meal, even though the fish was a little bit disappointing. The zabaione alone was worth the reservation process. Although the receipt says tips are appreciated, I will be happily not tipping and trying to quash this dumb North American custom.
Roma Sparita
Where? Roma Sparita (Trastevere, Rome, Italy) Map Menu
When? Tuesday June 16, 2026
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
After watching the sunset on the Aventine Hill, I've headed over the Tiber River to the neighbourhood of Trastevere, which boasts a myriad of restaurants slightly away from the main tourist centers. However, the prevalence of English is very audible, which is somewhat reassuring to me. There’s no sign for the restaurant I want to go to, Roma Sparita, but finally I spot a lone menu with the restaurant’s name at the entrance, which is by the Piazza di Santa Cecilia. I have a short wait - even at 9pm! - but I’m seated outside in the cool summer air and I feel good about my life choices. The menu has allergen information extensively documented throughout, as well as the same frozen food footnote that I saw on the menu yesterday.
Drink

I don’t have any pressing engagements tomorrow morning, so I decide to have a glass of wine. I’ve chosen the cheapest option, the Malvasia Puntinata from Cincinnato, a few hours southeast of Rome. It’s smooth and buttery, with a hint of pear. It’ll go nicely with my clam gnocchi.
Appetiser

Insalata mista: Mixed salad
The salad arrives first. It’s nicely presented, and comes with the full compliment of Italian condiments: extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt, pepper and complimentary bread.
Mains

Gnocchi alle vongle veraci, fiori di zucchina: Gnocchi with clams and zucchini flowers
It smells great and tastes even better. It’s got a hint of spice, with plenty of garlic and herbs. The sauce is very tasty and the gnocchi are soft and fluffy. Even the tomatoes are pretty remarkable, sweet and juicy. None of that sauce has gone to waste, I have mopped up everything with the bread and have thoroughly enjoyed it. The plate is spotless and I'm so impressed with my own efforts that I want to document this.

Dessert

Panna cotta: with fresh strawberry
I was tossing up between the panna cotta and the tiramisu, but when the waiter tells me there’s a fresh strawberry flavour for the panna cotta, it's a done deal. It’s got a slight jiggle, and the texture is perfectly smooth. It’s a lovely way to end an excellent meal.
La Mucca Biricchina
Where? La Mucca Biricchina (Monti, Rome, Italy) Map Menu
When? Monday June 15, 2026
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
My first choice of restaurant was full, so I needed to come up with an alternative. I'm reassured by some wise words from my Italian pastor: “you won’t find bad food in Rome”. Down the street from my original choice is this osteria, near Cavour station, and it’s mostly empty, which may be a bad sign. The walls are decorated with beautiful murals depicting Italian life and famous Roman landmarks. I was interested in their seafood pasta, but upon opening the sticky menu, there's a footnote saying that the seafood is in fact frozen, and my heart drops. At least they’re honest? I choose an appetiser and a mains, neither of them being marked as frozen. If I finish early, I’m going to grab some gelato from Gelateria Dell'Angeletto down the street.
The table near me ordered a starter of prosciutto and melon, and that is literally what has been served in front of them. Slices of melon and prosciutto draped over them, with no thought given to presentation or garnish.
Drink

My drink of choice is a local soda with juice and pulp from Sicilian lemons. It’s refreshing and fizzy, very reminiscent of a Lift, which I miss dearly.
Appetiser

Cozze alla Marinara: Mussels marinara
I really hope I don’t get food poisoning from this but it’s usually easy to tell if mussels are off. It smells nice, fragrant with tomato, parsley and garlic. I dig in - it's good. However, the bread is burnt, but thankfully it's not a big issue because of the free basket of bread that everyone gets with their meal. I’m doing my utmost best to prevent a mess but one, a shell drops on the floor after my shell plate overflows, and two, as I’m opening one of the mussels, it snaps and splashes the tomato broth all over me. Fortunately I'm not wearing white, and I'm also wearing a quick-dry tank top, so no major damage. I’ll clean this up later.
Mains

Lasagna
It doesn’t look like a regular lasagna? But it smells very cheesy and appetising. After a few mouthfuls I can tell this is going to be a stretch to finish, but it’s pretty decent. I’m glad it’s not seasoned any more than this, the saltiness of the cheese provides enough flavour as it is.
Overall, pretty solid. Not particularly interesting or outstanding, but something enjoyable enough for the night. They don’t accept credit card, but I luckily have some cash on hand to pay.
Osteria Fratelli Mori
Where? Osteria Fratelli Mori (Ostiense, Rome, Italy) Map Menu
When? Sunday June 14, 2026
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
I’m so tired today, Apple Health says I’ve hit 26k steps, so I’ve chosen a dinner restaurant close to the metro so I don’t have to walk too much. Around the corner from the Pyramide station on Line B is this osteria, “Moors Brothers”. There’s a few tables outside but I’m led into the large dining area at the back. It’s got a rustic but welcoming feel to it, especially because of the wooden and brick floor and furniture, and there are many families dining on this Sunday night. In true osteria style, several bottles of wine line the cabinets around the restaurant, but I don’t feel like drinking tonight.
Mains

Saltimbocca alla Romana: Slices of veal with ham cooked in butter and sage, with sautéed chicory
I like the meatiness of the veal. It’s very thin and perhaps a bit chewy, but very tasty and fragrant because of the layer of ham and scatterings of sage leaves. Eating it with the chicory balances it out nicely and there’s a bitter finish that cleanses the palate with each bite. I feel like this is a good break from the carb heavy meals I’ve been having lately, though it is a bit on the oily side.
I’m still hungry, which is a good sign that I haven’t over ordered, and I’ve got my eye on the dessert trio, which provides 50% more dessert than normal.
Dessert

The Top Three of Fratelli Mori: 1/2 Tiramisu, 1/2 Yogurt Mousse with berries, vanilla and cookie crumble, 1/2 Ambrogio's Ricotta with candied orange and caramelised pistachio
I have instructions to each the yogurt on the left first, then the ricotta on the right, then the tiramisu in the middle. The yogurt is simple but has a lovely texture from the crumble. The berries are perfectly sweet and tart and give this a nice summer vibe. It’s light and refreshing. The ricotta is heavier, I really like the bitterness of the citrus rind, it balances the sweet elements. Finally, the heaviest of the three, the tiramisu has a classic flavour with a strong alcohol and coffee essence that I’m really enjoying. All three have really hit the spot and they’ve been sized perfectly to fill my dessert stomach.
One thing I love about Italian restaurants - they don’t rush you. You have to catch the attention of the wait staff to get the bill, or you can just go up and pay at your own pace, leaving you to just take your time and sit and absorb the ambience of the restaurant. This is somewhat at odds with my introversion, but it’s nice being able to just relax and enjoy my time in the Eternal City.
Osteria Macondo
Where? Osteria Macondo (Castro Pretorio, Rome, Italy) Map Menu
When? Sunday June 14, 2026
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
This is right round the corner from my accommodation and I’m here for a quick and convenient lunch. I’m not expecting anything mind blowing or authentic given my proximity to Roma Termini, the main transit hub for the city. The restaurant is relatively empty when I sit down but within minutes, the inside fills up for the lunch rush. I’m dying for some salad after just having carbs for the last couple of days.
Mains

Pasta alla carbonara: Egg, guanciale, Pecorino Romano, black pepper
Everything arrives at once. The carbonara tastes kind of bland to begin with but after scooping some of the crispy pork bits which are very salty, it comes together. The spaghetti is definitely on the tougher side, but it’s still edible. I swipe a box of olive oil and vinegar from the supplies and use that to dress the salad. Yeah, it’s fine. Nothing particularly special.
Osteria La Sol Fa
Where? Osteria La Sol Fa (Esquilino, Rome, Italy) Map Menu
When? Saturday June 13, 2026
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
One of the things I love about writing a food blog is that I'm forced to learn things about different cultures. Did you know there's a difference between a ristorante, an osteria, a taverna and an enoteca? While a ristorante is a simply a restaurant in every sense of the word in English, an osteria is a local wine bar where customers would bring their own food to enjoy with the establishment's wine. These days, almost every osteria will have a simple menu that caters to the local crowd, fostering an environment for the neighbourhood to drink wine and eat food in a communal setting.
The one I am dining at today is named after three notes in the solfège musical scale, la, sol and fa, and is located a few minutes away from San Giovanni metro station, a bit away from the hustle and bustle of the Palatine Hill. I have just over an hour to dine before the table is required, but that shouldn’t be a problem. I’m sitting in the corner right by the kitchen and the smell of the food is heavenly.
Drink

I’ve started with the Chinotto. I have no idea how to pronounce everything but I try my best and the waiter corrects me at every step. “Ch” is a hard “K” sound. This soft drink is made from bitter citrus, and begins with a sweet, syrupy taste almost like port, but ends with a bitter yet somewhat pleasant aftertaste.
Mains

Matriciana: tomato sauce, bacon, onion, salt, chili pepper, pecorino cheese
For pasta, I’ve chosen the Tagliatelle Matriciana, which has a huge spiel on their website about whether it should be called Matriciana or Amatriciana. What it boils down to is a single ingredient: onion. An amatriciana does not have onion. The tagliatelle is cooked perfectly, having a springiness to each bite that you just don’t get with boxed pasta. I find this quite aggressively seasoned, with salt from both the bacon and pecorino making this full of flavour. It’s even more delicious with the bread, so I’ll make sure there’s absolutely no sauce left on the plate when I’m done.
Dessert

Tiramisol: house tiramisu with hazelnut cream
Of course, I have to end the meal with a tiramisu. The house special adds hazelnut cream to the classic recipe. It’s served in a hipster-like jar which doesn’t give it the opportunity to display all its layers, but I dig in anyway. Oh yeah, it’s good. It still has that coffee flavour but the hazelnut adds a nice nuttiness that takes the edge off the bitterness. The grated hazelnut also adds a nice crunchy texture. Despite its small size, it is quite rich, so I’m well satiated for this meal.
Bonci Pizzarium
Where? Bonci Pizzarium (Trionfale, Rome, Italy) Map Menu
When? Saturday June 13, 2026
Who With? Me
Food Style? Roman Pizza
One of my friends in Toronto recommended this place to me, prefacing it with, "if I could set up three teleportation zones anywhere in the world, this would be one of them". I have no idea what to expect, but I have to admit, expectations are higher as a result. What I was greeted with after exiting the metro at Cipro was a horde of people at a take-out pizzeria bearing the name of well-known Italian chef Gabriele Bonci, who was recently featured in a Netflix series called Chef’s Table. Bonci's recognition goes so far that he has been called the "Michelangelo of Pizza"; the secret to how he stands above other pizza makers is in the dough, which contains his own blend of grains, as well as olive oil.
There seems to be a system but I don’t know what it is so I boldly go up to the counter and ask. You’re supposed to take a ticket from outside and when your number is called, you choose which pizza you want and pay afterwards. Pizza is cut with scissors in typical Roman style - pizza al taglio - then weighed, with each pizza being priced per kilogram. 
There’s a variety to choose from, and new ones regularly pop out from the kitchen to the left of the display cabinets. Each slice is overloaded with colourful toppings like salami, prosciutto, courgettes, arugula, eggplant and buffalo mozzarella.
Pizza

For me, I’ve chosen one with prosciutto and honeydew, and one with yellow courgette. It comes to a whopping €25 for what I’ve ordered, which is over $40CAD. They’re placed in the oven to crisp up and served hot. I’m pretty impressed by the flavours, especially the sweet notes of the honeydew coming through. The bread is indeed quite special, it’s got that delicious crispiness and a solid flavour. I wouldn’t call this well worth it for that price, but I’ve had a good time and I really need to walk off all this food.
Conejo Negro
Where? Conejo Negro (Little Italy, Toronto, Ontario, Canada) Map Menu
When? Thursday October 2, 2025
Who With? My parents
Food Style? Caribbean, Creole and Latin American
Conejo Negro (thanks to Duolingo, I know that this means Black Rabbit) is new to the neighbourhood at Ossington and College, but it's certainly made its mark with the Michelin guide, earning a Bib Gourmand in 2024 for exceptional food at a moderate price. Though the interior is small, the after-work crowd is beginning to stream in for drinks and food, and they have a backyard patio which is popular in summer. It's very much one of those trendy places with a great vibe, and given the interesting fusion of Caribbean, Creole and Latin American cuisines, none of which are readily available in New Zealand, I'm keen to showcase the best of Toronto's multiculturalism to my parents.
Appetiser

Firecracker Shrimp: fried shrimp, firecracker sauce
Great flavour, spicy and very appetizing. My parents make sure that there is no sauce leftover, and it's clear that I've definitely picked up some foodie habits from them.
Side #1

Collards and hocks: braised Southern greens, smoked ham hocks, carrots, peppers, onions, pepper sauce
I'm usually not a fan of collard greens, but I'm quite impressed by how well it pairs with the lovely smokiness and char on the ham hocks.
Side #2

Grilled okra: spice grilled okra, garlic and lime crema, chili oil
Really strong flavours with some great heat in there. That crema balances the dish perfectly by reducing the intensity of the chili.
Mains #1

Caribbean style braised beef: collards, cheddar grits, pepper sauce
Lovely and soft, but perhaps lacking a little seasoning in the meat itself. Once you eat it with the sauce though, bam - it’s excellent. We ordered some pumpkin rice to help soak up that delicious sauce. The grits are rich and have an intense cheesy flavour, and they're very filling.
Mains #2

Fried chicken: chicken thigh, smoked hot honey, house pickled veg
Wonderfully crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside with a nice honey hint. Love the acidity of the pickled vegetables to take that oily, fried edge off, but the jalapeños are very spicy and now I’m sweating a bit. We've taken our time getting through all the pickles and the wait staff have attempted to clear the table three times with the pickles still on the plate, a huge faux pas in our opinion. We paid for those pickles and as Asians we are going to eat them.
My parents can’t decide which dessert to get because they’re both so good so we end up getting both. ¿Por que no los dos?
Dessert #1

Tres leches: dulce de leche, toasted coconut
It’s so delicious and moist, my parents have never tried a cake like this and I was afraid that it would be too sweet. But the toasted coconut has that beautiful crunch and saltiness, adding complexity to the cake. It’s such a classic Latin American dessert and here it's executed perfectly.
Dessert #2

Sticky banana rum cake: rum caramel sauce, vanilla ice cream, pralines
Very reminiscent of New Orleans' most famous dessert, the bananas foster, where the bananas are cooked and then flambéd with rum. Love that they've thrown in some pralines as well, which is another very New Orleans element. The rum is strong and evident, and my father gives his approval. The pralines are a bit too sweet but add a wonderful crunch to the moist cake and ice cream.
My parents have thoroughly enjoyed the meal, and I'm glad they've had the chance to try out these kinds of cuisine. It's truly an interesting blend of flavours and we're lucky that they're so easy to find in Toronto.
Imm Thai Kitchen
Where? Imm Thai Kitchen (Little Italy, Toronto, Ontario, Canada) Map Menu
When? Monday May 9, 2022
Who With? Me
Food Style? Thai
My favourite Thai place is currently closed as the family that runs it takes a long deserved vacation back to Thailand. In their absence, I’ve decided to try some other Thai places around the city, starting with this restaurant in Little Italy. I’m exhausted from badminton and I’m starving. Let’s see how this place compares to the big Thai restaurants in Toronto: Pai, Khao San Road and Sabai Sabai.
Thai food in Toronto tends to be overly sweet. It dilutes the intensity of the other famous flavours of Thai food: chili, kaffir lime, Thai basil, tamarind, fish sauce, lemongrass. Things must be in balance of course, I just wish these places would stay truer to their roots instead of catering to the Canadians.
Mains

Massaman Curry: Thai Massaman Paste with coconut milk, white onions and potatoes, topped with fried onion and peanuts
Yeeeeah. I can tell from the look it’s not good. It doesn’t have a strong flavour, like there’s too much coconut. They’ve left the galangal in, which is a little unpleasant because of the texture, and I’ve never seen this curry with carrots before. It really just tastes like flavoured coconut milk and sadness. Not even the right kind of peanutty flavour too.
Oh well. Another one to blacklist.
L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele
Where? L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele (Naples, Italy) Map
When? Tuesday April 18, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian Pizza
Naples is known for its pizza, and of course I have to go to this Michelin star restaurant for my fix. It was made additionally famous by Julia Roberts as one of her dining destinations in Eat, Pray, Love. At €4 for a normal sized pizza, this is one of the cheapest Michelin star restaurants in the world. Choose from margherita or marinara and watch the kitchen prepare your pizza in front of your eyes.
Pizza

Margherita - tomato and cheese
Naturally, the restaurant is packed, even at 5.30pm, so I've had no choice but to takeaway my margherita. Of course, if you can dine in, then I would recommend doing so, just so the pizza is fresh and hot off the oven. Despite cooling a little bit, the pizza is full of flavour and I love the fresh garlic on top. Definitely worth it for the amount of money I paid, but it's not mind blowing.
Da Gigino
Where? Da Gigino (Sorrento, Italy) Map Menu
When? Monday April 17, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
It's my last night in Sorrento and I'm at another unassuming alleyway restaurant. I think one thing I appreciate about many Italian menus is that they detail allergens for each meal, as well as what products are frozen. This definitely influences what I order. I've chosen a caponata for antipasto and a mixed platter for secondi. The house white is a very generous pour of a crisp dry wine and I have no idea what kind of grape it is.
Antipasto

Caponata Sorrentina - "frisella", eggplant, cherry tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, olives, tuna and capers
I don't actually know what a caponata is, but here is one done Sorrento style. It looks like a giant bruschetta but it's full of delicious cherry tomatoes, olives, capers and tuna, with a mozzarella ball on top. I can detect some fennel seeds which I'm not really a fan of, but they're not overpowering. I think it would have been nicer to serve the tuna raw or seared in thin slices, just so it doesn't look like it's come from a can. It's not a bad dish. The bread has maintained crispiness despite all the oil and liquid on top of it, and the cherry tomatoes are my favourite thing on the plate.
Secondo Piatto

Misto di Carne alla Griglia - mix of grilled meat
The mixed grill is exactly what it is: a plate of grilled meats with no sauce. It does have a nice smokiness to it though, so I can probably make do with adding my own olive oil, balsamic and salt. The chicken is a bit dry, but the beef is quite good. The pork has questionable texture. Again, it's just another okay dish, possibly even below average. I'm not sticking around for dessert at this restaurant.
Ristorante Fuoro
Where? Ristorante Fuoro (Sorrento, Italy) Map
When? Sunday April 16, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
Back in Sorrento, I'm at another recommendation by Yelp, which says the Caprese salad is excellent here, so that's a definite, especially since I didn't get one on Capri Island itself. I'm also intrigued by this bacon wrapped pork in red wine with hazelnuts, so that will be my secondo piatto; otherwise I would have probably gone for the seared tuna. The restaurant is in one of Sorrento's little alleyways that runs parallel to the main road, and there's an accordionist playing, of all songs, That's Amore, at the back of the room.
Antipasto

Insalata Caprese - tomato and buffalo mozzarella salad
Oh boy. The salad is good. The tomatoes have a great flavour, they don't have that gross water taste. It's such a simple dish but it's done very well. It goes to show what a big difference the addition of salt, black pepper, olive oil and mixed herbs can do to enhance a basic salad.
Secondo Piatto

Maialino Lardellato - bacon-wrapped prok with red wine and chopped hazelnuts
The pork is here and the bacon smells wonderful. I'm not sold on the lukewarm greens in the corner, nor on the hazelnuts sprinkled on the top, but the pork is thick and meaty, and there's lots of rich red wine sauce. The bacon is the clear winner on the plate. The pork is maybe a smidgen overdone but it's got flavour, the wine balancing the saltiness of the bacon perfectly.
Dessert

Tiramisu
I feel like it's been a while since I've had tiramisu and I'd like a break from all the citrus desserts. The sponge is a bit soggy from the rum but the flavour is there. Certainly not the best tiramisu I've had but it's good enough.
Da Pasquale Capri Street Food
Where? Da Pasquale Capri Street Food (Capri, Italy) Map
When? Sunday April 16, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
I'm only in Capri for a few hours, so after a quick run of the southern coast, I'm back in the center of town for lunch. This restaurant is on the way to Anacapri on Via Roma, and quite away from the crowds of the central plaza. I want something quick so I can get back to sightseeing, and I'll probably grab some gelato elsewhere. I've gone for the chef's recommendation, the ravioli alla caprese.
Primo Piatto

Ravioli alla Caprese
It's silky and smooth, in a rich tomato sauce with lots of herbs - and there is plenty of sauce! It will be great with the bread on the side. I love it.
L'Osteria Del Buonconvento
Where? L'Osteria Del Buonconvento (Sorrento, Italy) Map
When? Saturday April 15, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
I'm here at the recommendation of some Australians I met yesterday on the Amalfi Coast tour, who are incidentally also here tonight, so I hope this is good. As tempting as their secondi menu looks, I'm going with an antipasto of the house and a primo - a seafood linguine. I've been given an apertivo as a welcome drink, and welcomed I definitely feel. The only Italian song I know, Grande Amore by Il Volo, third place at Eurovision 2015, is currently playing.
Amuse Bouche

A plate with food arrives. I think it is my antipasto. I don't actually know but I eat it anyway. It's fried dough with herbs on rocket and Parmesan and it's quite good.
Antipasto

Antipasto del Buonconvento - mixed starter from Buonconvento
Oh my god. A huge platter arrives. This is the antipasto. It's filled with grilled vegetables, cured meats and cheese. I can't believe it. This looks amazing. It has some wonderful Mediterranean flavours, the tomato, eggplant and spicy sausage being the outstanding items on the plate. I'm so happy taking bits of everything, trying every combination with the herbed bread in the basket. It feels as close as I can get to a true Italian experience without being adopted by a Nonna and having a 6 hour meal.
Primo Piatto

Linguine ai Fruitti di Mare - linguine pasta with seafood, cherry tomatoes
The seafood linguine is here and the smell is so heartwarming. The pasta is probably a bit undercooked but the freshness of the seafood is evident, it's sweet and tasty. The portion size is excellent and thanks to the double antipasto, I am totally stuffed. There is no room for dessert.
Dessert

Easter Cake
I lied. I stuck around the restaurant talking to all the people I met at the Amalfi Coast tour and two hours later, I'm ready to have dessert. I got the Easter special, a lovely moist cake with lemon and strawberries. I am absolutely stuffed now. For real. There is a tiny bit of room for the complimentary limoncello, for which I am extremely excited. It's almost 11pm and it's time for a food coma.
Inn Bufalito
Where? Inn Bufalito (Sorrento, Italy) Map Menu
When? Friday April 14, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
It's quite late after my tour of the Amalfi Coast, so I'm at the closest decent place to my accommodation recommended by Yelp. I can't help but choose the buffalo steak, especially given the name of the restaurant.
Secondo Piatto

Bistecca di Bufalo - grilled buffalo steak
Yuss. The steak smells great and cuts smoothly. It's missing seasoning but it has that wonderful smokey aroma to it. A bit of salt and pepper and we are all good to go. The potatoes are nice and fluffy but the salad is plain; again adding my own olive oil and balsamic fixes it up and gives it a great Mediterranean feel. Not bad! Much better than last night. It hits the spot and I feel like my appetite is back to normal, so I'm going to celebrate with dessert, even though I have been having sweet things all day. The region is famous for its lemons, so I'm going to go with the almond and lemon tart.
Dessert

Torta Caprese al Limone - almond and lemon tart
It takes a while to arrive, but it's warm and homely, very much like a Nonna has baked this. I love the candied lemon peel and the lemon sauce, the lemon is clearly the most prominent ingredient, and so it should be. For €6, I was expecting a larger slice, but at least it was enjoyable.
ReFood al Vicoletto
Where? ReFood al Vicoletto (Sorrento, Italy) Map Menu
When? Thursday April 13, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
I've left the chaos of Rome and I'm in the delightfully peaceful resort town of Sorrento. I expect most places to be quite touristy as a result, so I'm no longer looking for authenticity per se, but quality. This little restaurant caught my eye as I was walking from the port to my accommodation; they had a large display of seafood outside and I was immediately interested. So, I've ordered a trilogy of seafood to start with, and lamb shanks for mains. I wanted the boar cheek but unfortunately it was out of stock.
Amuse Bouche

A free glass of prosecco has appeared in front of me, as well as some bread with balsamic reduction. Goodie!
Antipasto

Trilogy Refood - octopus carpaccio, smoked swordfish and cuttlefish salad
A massive plate of seafood arrives. I try a bit of everything and come to a quick conclusion; the smoked swordfish is the best, really tasty and full of flavour, then the cuttlefish with walnuts, which is good but I think it needed some acidity or other flavour to compliment it, especially as I'm in Sorrento, which is famous for their lemons. Finally there is the octopus carpaccio, which is still very good but nothing special. I will say that texturally the octopus is quite exquisite, it's not rubbery at all and it's sliced extremely thinly. It almost doesn't taste like octopus. I wish there was a way of asking without sounding like a dick. The salad needed some dressing, at least some olive oil. It's an okay dish, it could have been much better with a little bit more attention to the finer details.
Secondo Piatto

Stinco di Agnello - lamb shank glazed with walnuts and thyme
My eyes widen as the lamb shank is placed in front of me. I find it odd that there are chopped peanuts - definitely not walnuts - placed everywhere, but they add texture. I'm not completely sold on them. The meat is not quite falling off the bone, maybe even slightly dry, but it is tender and well seasoned. I like the potatoes. Again, like the previous night, I wish there was more sauce! I am struggling to finish though, there is a lot of meat on the plate and I guess my appetite still isn't at 100% normality.
There's no way I can fit dessert in so I'll leave it at that. All in all, slightly subpar for my first meal in Sorrento.
La Maisonnette Ristrot
Where? La Maisonette Ristrot (Quartiere X Ostiense, Rome, Italy) Map Menu
When? Wednesday April 12, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian with French Influence
For my last night in Rome, I've chosen a restaurant that is one metro stop away from my BnB. They've portmanteau'd the words restaurant and bistro in Italian to make "Ristrot". The menu, all in Italian but an English one is available online, sounds appetising, and has a fair bit of French flair in it. I can't wait to dig in. I'm going three courses.
Antipasto

Terrina d'Anatra - duck terrine with zibibbo, mango, tender salad, tangerine
The duck terrine arrives. I'm impressed by the colours on the plate, it's got a spring/summery vibe to it. First bite - wow. The sweetness of the fruit, especially the mango, works so well with the terrine. I'm hit with all sorts of amazing flavours and textures, it's such a well thought out dish: the crunch of the pistachio, the meatiness of the duck, the various gels and chutneys, even the little leaves of salad have a role to play. Very good start.
Secondo Piatto

Filetto di Maialino - pork tenderloin, creamed potatoes, red cabbage and porter
The pork fillet is here. It smells lovely. It is perhaps a smidgen dry but it tastes great. I think it is just the right amount of sweetness, I wouldn't want anything more sweet than that. The cabbage and potato are spot on, but I do have one criticism. To borrow the famous phrase of one of my favourite reality TV chefs, Manu Feidel, "where is the sauce?!" I would have loved more of that delicious sauce with the pork, and then have some leftover to soak up with the bread.
A waitress asks what I would like for dessert and I've chosen the cassata. I don't really know what that is but Wikipedia tells me it is a traditional cake from Sicily. The waitress tries to tell me something but my face goes blank and she goes to call someone who can speak English. He explains to me that their cassata has different ingredients to what they would normally put; orange reduction, pistachio, hazelnut, ricotta, some others I didn't quite catch in his thick accent. I'm not too fussed though, I like hearing the spiel and I would have happily ordered it with whatever ingredients they wanted to experiment with. I'm here for an adventure!
Dessert

Cassata Mon Amour
I had a feeling this would happen, but it is deconstructed. I don't mind though. I've never had constructed cassata so I don't have anything to compare it with. My favourite elements are the hazelnut creme and sesame spice wafer. I would have liked a bit more texture on the plate, but flavourwise is this very good. The balance between each ingredient is well done and again, it shows that a lot of thought has gone into making this dish. That was a memorable meal to make up for all the bad experiences in Rome, and I'm feeling a bit happier about my past week here.
Antico Arco
Where? Antico Arco (Trastevere, Rome, Italy) Map Menu
When? Tuesday April 11, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian Fine Dining
After exploring the Vatican, I'm a short bus ride to the south at a restaurant called Antico Arco. One look at the menu and my first thought is "oh geez I'm in a super fancy restaurant". This may be okay, given how small my appetite is. The wait staff speak impeccable English. I've ordered a single main meal for a whopping €30, but as one of the ingredients is black truffle, €30 doesn't seem too bad.
Amuse Bouche

To start, I'm served with a delicious warm amuse bouche of chickpea cream and tomato breadcrumbs. Yum!
I go to top up my cup of sparkling water and the bag of homemade bread falls over, sending a roll...literally rolling to the side of the table. My mouth involuntarily opens. Thankfully it comes to a stop on the table and I place it back into the bag nonchalantly. Nothing has happened. No one saw anything.
Mains

Lamb fillet in a crust of nuts and breadcrumbs with cauliflower and black truffle
The plate arrives and the portions are even more disappointing than what I had imagined. But it smells amazing, the truffles are so intense and appetising - the only mushroom that I will say that about! It's the first time I've actually eaten truffle - other times it's usually been essence or oil. The meat is thick and chunky, and texturally satisfying to sink my teeth into. I was expecting it to be more crunchy because of the nuts but it's fine the way it is. The complimentary bread is doing wonders with soaking up the dollops of cauliflower purée artistically placed on the plate, and more importantly, the bread is what is going to fill me up. Very good, and my plate is almost spotless at the end.
I'm ready for dessert. I'm going for the molten chocolate soufflé with almond waffle, because it sounds damn good and I don't care that I've had food poisoning. From my knowledge of Latin and French, I know that the name of the dessert, Tortino dal Cuore Morbido, has something to do with heart (cuore is similar to French coeur, as in Sacre Coeur) and death (morbido similar to morbid in English), so it's going to be incredibly rich. It's €13 but I'm on holiday and I saved tons of money while not eating for two days. I'm expecting dessert to be the diameter of a golf ball.
Palate Cleanser

A palate cleanser arrives and for a second I think it's the dessert. Phew. It's a chocolate gelato with strawberry sauce and it totally is the size of a half golf ball.
Dessert

Tortino dal Cuore Morbido - molten chocolate souffle cake with almond waffle
Dessert arrives for real. A wonderful nut and cocoa aroma fills the air. It's the diameter of a tennis ball and I know it's going to be super rich. I tap the soufflé with the spoon and the entire thing jiggles. The cake exterior is so thin that it actually deforms when I push it. I cut through and this wonderful chocolate liquid spills out. It's so heartwarming and ludicrously rich, I wouldn't have wanted this to be any bigger.
I am so full. Oh boy. Definitely the fanciest meal I've had in Italy, and portions fortunately perfect for the size of my current appetite.
Nonna Betta
Where? Nonna Betta (Rione VII Regola, Rome, Italy) Map
When? Tuesday April 11, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian Jewish/Kosher
In the ghetto of Rome, this Jewish roman restaurant serves very classic homely food, and with a name like Nonna Betta (Grandmother Betta), it's no wonder it's a local favourite. Their speciality is the Jerusalem artichoke, lightly fried and salted, so I've ordered one with a gnocchi for lunch mains. I'm not at 100% appetite just yet, still suffering from the effects of food poisoning.
Antipasto

Carciofo alla Giudia - artichoke, Jewish style
The artichoke is delicious. Crispy on the outside, flakes with the texture of potato chips, while the inside is smooth like avocado. It's seasoned perfectly to bring out the natural taste.
Primo Piatto

Tagliolini col Ragu di Nonna Betta - fresh pasta with Nonna Betta's Ragu
The gnocchi comes out. It is not gnocchi. It's spaghetti. It smells good and I have no idea how to tell the waiter that it isn't what I ordered so I just eat it anyway. There's lots of tomato, a bit of meat which I assume is beef, and a bit of cheese, which hopefully doesn't upset my stomach. It's probably too much for me too eat in this state but I power on because it's quite tasty.
Burro e Sugo
Where? Burro e Sugo (Quartiere X Ostiense, Rome, Italy) Map
I'm at a local joint near my hostel in Rome, which I know is authentic because most of the wait staff don't speak English and the menu is mostly in Italian, save for the combo specials. I'm not that hungry so I've opted for the light meal, which gives me two bruschetta, a main - fettuccine al salmone, and a cake of the house. After some complications with my accommodation, I'm hoping to take it easy and relax today.
Antipasto

House Bruschetta
The bruschetta arrives. One is tomato and the other is beans. The bread is warm to touch and crispy, with lots of herbs and olive oil to bring out those classic Mediterranean flavours. I like the tomato one better, the bean one needed a bit more salt, and I'm not too much of a fan of celery either. A quick glance sideways and I'm glad that hands is an acceptable way to eat bruschetta, otherwise I've been doing it horribly wrong since day one here.
Primo Piatto

Fettuccine al salmone
The fettuccine arrives and a wonderful smoked salmon smells fills the air. I like it. The creamy sauce and smoked fish go very well together, and this would be too rich without the fresh green herbs sprinkled on the top. The serving size is pretty generous and there's a lot of salmon within the pasta. I'm getting full.
The lights of the restaurant are turned off, leaving only the romantic glow of the candles and fairy lights illuminating the restaurant. Too bad I'm here by myself. This does pose a serious problem though, how am I going to take pictures of my dessert without attracting too much attention? Worse, I'm asked what dessert I want and have no idea what the waiter is saying. He spouts off some stuff and I recognise only panna cotta, so I just order that. It comes with Nutella. Yusssss.
Holy moly. This is a panna cotta in a bowl covered with about an inch of Nutella. I'm not going to take a picture of this because it's probably culturally insensitive and, when in Rome, literally...
I have to scoop the Nutella to one side. It's too rich and sweet otherwise. That was almost unpleasant. What a pity because the rest of the meal was very good. As I leave, a crowd of at least 20 are waiting outside to get in.
----------------
Addendum: I've got food poisoning. I think it was either the salmon fettuccine or the panna cotta. I'm leaning towards the panna cotta because I did feel quite unpleasant after eating it, but I thought it was just the excess Nutella. Let's not go into details. Hopefully I'll be back on track tomorrow.
Trattoria Il Contadino
Where? Trattoria Il Contadino (Florence, Italy) Map
When? Friday April 7, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
After day tripping around the Tuscan country side, I'm back in Florence for my last night. I'm at a restaurant near the train station at a recommendation of a friend, and despite it being in a touristy area, it's filled with locals. The front menu is Italian but the back is in English. I've gone for the fixed price menu, which has two plates and a side dish, and a drink for €14.50
First Plate

Roast Pork
The roast pork arrives. It's...um. Not what I expected. The meat is okay and the gravy is a bit watered down..and I'm not sure what else to say because there is nothing else on the plate. I'm very confused.
Second Plate

Roast Rabbit and Side Salad
My roast rabbit and side salad arrive next. They are also very literally what I got. However the rabbit is much more tasty, and the meat is falling off the bone beautifully on the drumstick. It's not as gamey as I thought it would be. Other parts of the rabbit are a bit tough and dry though.
I'm leaning towards a no for this one. The other tables seem to have amazing looking platters with side vegetables and garnish and I don't know what I've done wrong.
Ristorante Vivo
Where? Ristorante Vivo (Florence, Italy) Map Menu
When? Thursday April 6, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian Seafood
I saw this recommended by a local so I thought I'd give it a go. It's not too far out of the city centre, very close to the library in fact, but what's encouraging is the menu is all in Italian. It doesn't have the cosy family vibe that I Riffaioli had but that's okay. It's more modern and upbeat, and they're currently playing a lounge cover of "All About That Bass". The very helpful waitress has translated everything for me and I've gone for the mix raw seafood platter with the bavette gamberi e zucchine, which is similar to tagliatelle and with shrimp and zucchini. I also have a single glass of white wine, as opposed to a carafe. Things are looking good. I arrived right on opening time and the restaurant was empty, but 30 mins later, it's starting to fill up.
Antipasto

Mix Crudo - Platter of raw seafood with oysters, clams, mussels,
sea urchin and sea snails
The seafood platter arrives and it looks SO GOOD that I don't have time to write about everything. The oysters and shellfish are sweet and fresh, the mussels...are okay but will never beat the green lipped species from New Zealand. The sea snails are my favourite on the plate. A little smudge of the spicy mayo and a sprinkle of lemon juice and they're so tasty. The prawns I am happily sucking the roe out of the heads and eating the flesh and licking my fingers (and then typing on my phone). Wow. I'm impressed.
While waiting for mains, I peer into the kitchen just behind me. I love watching chefs in action, running a restaurant is no easy task and they make it look so coordinated and disciplined. The dishes being brought out look amazing and I'm looking forward to mine. The waitress catches my eye and apologises for the wait but I tell her I'm happy watching everything. She says that the fisherman and restaurant operate under the same umbrella and I say it definitely shows in how fresh the produce is.
Primo Piatto

Bavette Gamberi e Zucchine
The mains arrive. I can smell the shrimp and onion, but there isn't a lot of zucchini. It tastes great though, and I'm willing to forgive the strands of shrimp antennae strewn through the pasta. I'm glad I'm in the corner of the restaurant where no can watch me barbarically tear these shrimp apart with my fingers and then suck the roe out of heads.
I want dessert. There a lot of choice. Do I go for the Tuscan almond biscuit with wine or the Italian icons tiramisu and panna cotta?
Dessert

Dolci del Giorno - berry cheesecake
I've decided to go with the berry cheesecake, just to see how the Italians do it. They do it damn well. The cheesecake is soft and smooth, with lots of berries adorning the top, adding that lovely tartness to balancing the sweet vanilla filling.
That was an amazing meal. I'm smiling from ear to ear and I instruct the waitress to pass my compliments to the chef; for some reason she is impressed with my terrible command of the Italian language when I magic up two words to sum my experience: molto bene!
I'Tuscani 2
Where? I'Tuscani 2 (Florence, Italy) Map Menu
When? Wednesday April 5, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian Steakhouse
I'm trying my luck with steak again. This place is also highly rated but it's well hidden down a narrow alley and the door is so unassuming it doesn't even look like a restaurant, so hopefully it's good. The waiter tells me the T-bone platter is available for one person, so I order it. Unfortunately it also comes with 500mL of red wine. I swear I will not be finishing this so I can avoid another disaster. The waiter also informs me that all the cutlery is not plastic, but composted and made from cellulose produced from the organic waste in leftovers. Nice!
Appetizer

Capocollo with croutons
I get a free appetiser. Similar to prosciutto but from a different part of the animal, it's quite salty yet balances well with the salad. I can feel the wine already. This is not a good sign. Thankfully the lighting is dim so people can't see my skin tone.
Secondo Piatto

Scelta tra Filetto o Bistecca - Beef steak with potatoes and grilled vegetables
A massive plate of meat and vegetables arrives. It looks and smells damn good and and I dive in with my composted fork and a metallic steak knife. I hit the fat and it won't cut further. I try and try again and in the end I can feel my fingers getting numb from working the knife and fork. I ask a waitress if they can cut it up for me because this is just too difficult, and not just because of the wine. The plate arrives back for my second attempt. I think they've just cooked it a bit more than the medium rare I asked for, but we're good. This steak has flavour. It's got a wonderful smokiness to it and the meat is tasty. The grilled vegetables are perfect with a bit of olive oil drizzled on them.
I'm struggling to finish but I make it to the end, with only the bone, potatoes, bread and lettuce remaining. I'm totally stuffed and the waitress congratulates me on a job well done. The tables around me (all Asian) have smartly opted to share their platter. I'm exhausted. I politely decline dessert. That was a mega meal and finally the steak that I've been looking for without being ridiculously expensive. I'm struggling to breathe, that's how full I am. I'm going to finish my glass of wine (there's still half left in the bottle) and then stumble back home.
La Cantinetta
Where? La Cantinetta (Florence, Italy) Map
When? Tuesday April 4, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
I'm dying for a Florentine steak. However today I learned that the famous bistecca alla florentine is a massive 1kg T-bone designed to be shared. What a bombshell. I need to find a steak place that doesn't serve only bistecca alla florentine, so TripAdvisor has recommended this place right next to the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, which is an indication it's probably going to be pricey and touristy. Oh well. I'm desperate. Their menu of the day has chicken liver pâté on crostini for entree and a steak for mains, so it's a done deal.
Antipasto

Crostini Toscani ai Fegatini - chicken liver pâté on toasted bread
The crostini is good but definitely inferior to last night's. The salad kinda cheapens the dish, it didn't quite feel like it was in place. The pâté was decent though.
Secondo Piatto

Costata alla Fiorentina con Patate Arrosto - beef steak with roast potatoes
The steak arrives and it's big! The first thing I notice is that though I've asked for medium rare, the fat has not been rendered at all, so it's completely gross and inedible. The steak itself is okay, nothing really outstanding about it. It's lacking flavour, it would have been good with a garlic or wine sauce. The roast potatoes are soggy like they've been microwaved, not crispy at all. And there's that cheap salad on the side again.
Disappointing :( Damn you, stupid TripAdvisor reviewers.
Osteria I Riffaioli
Where? Osteria I Riffaioli (Florence, Italy) Map
When? Monday April 3, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
I am at an Italian restaurant where there is no trace of English. This place has been highly rated as one of those places that the locals go to, and I know I'm in for a treat. The lovely lady in charge of the restaurant tries her best to explain what every item on the menu is, and it's overwhelming to take in but in the end I use Google Translate to do most of the work. I've gone for the grigione and the magretto, even though I don't know what they are. I do however recognise a few words: Toscana (Tuscan), crostini, arancio (orange), spinaci (spinach). I've also accidentally ordered a quarter carafe of wine.
Appetizer

Grigone al Taglio con Crostoni Toscani
The grigione comes out. I have hit the jackpot - it's liver pâté and I love it. It's so rich and tasty, and goes so well with the salty cured meat. It's not like prosciutto, it's much harder, almost nearing jerky toughness. When the crostini is done, I move onto the complimentary bread and douse it with olive oil - and the olive oil TASTES like olives!! - to finish the rest of the meat. So good. I am halfway through the carafe and I should slow down.
Secondo Piatto

Magretto d'Anatra all'Arancio con Spinaci Croccanti
The wooden board with the grigione is taken away and quickly replaced with a plate of duck, orange and spinach. First bite - mind blown. Absolutely beautiful meat, cooked perfectly so that it's still slightly pink, and a wonderful orange zestiness coming through without being too sweet. I love that they've included the rind in the dish, and with the onion, it's made an excellent sauce that I am soaking up with the bread. I can't stop smiling because I am enjoying this so much. And I am also getting quite smashed off the wine.
Dessert

Tiramisu
With such a homely feel, I have to have the tiramisu. It's excellent and the perfect way to finish off such a memorable meal. Molto bene!
La Grotta
Where? La Grotta (Riomaggiore, Italy) Map
When? Sunday April 2, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
I'm so tired after walking the whole day and I just want food, and I want it quick so I can catch the sunset of my final day in Cinque Terre. I've gone for the seafood spaghetti with the intent to have a tiramisu for dessert. Probably no alcohol for me today.
Primo Piatto

Spaghetti with mixed seafood
The plate arrives and the food is wrapped in tinfoil. Interesting! I've got seen this done on MKR before and it was a disaster. This however is not too bad. There's a lot of seafood - clams, mussels, prawns, squid - but I wish there was a nice sauce that went with it, especially as the bread is doing nothing by itself. I don't like that I have to peel the prawns too, but I do like they kept the prawn heads in. Definitely the weakest meal I've had in Italy, but it wasn't unenjoyable. Can the tiramisu save the meal?
Dessert

Tiramisu
It's also okay. It's been drowned in so much liquor that the sponge disintegrates in my mouth. But it tastes fine. Not the best way to end my time here, but I've had a good run in Riomaggiore.
Veciu Muin
Where? Veciu Muin (Riomaggiore, Italy) Map
When? Saturday April 1, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
Don't ask me to pronounce the name of this restaurant.
It's less than 100m away from my accommodation, and I spent the whole day just chilling out and taking a break since it was a little rainy. I spot a few interesting things on their menu - swordfish! The last time I had swordfish would have probably been in San Francisco at Fisherman's Wharf.
Antipasto

Bruschettona pâtéd'olive - large bruschetta with olive pâté
I've got the house white and a large plate of olive pâté bruschetta to start with. The bruschetta isn't as crispy as it should be and in essence it just feels like toast, but the olive pâté is exquisitely salty and nicely seasoned with a sprinkling of herbs.
Secondo Piatto

Pesce Spada alla griglia con rucola e pomodorini - grilled swordfish with rocket and cherry tomatoes
The swordfish comes out. It's tasty and seasoned well, perhaps slightly overcooked, but I love the sautéed red onion on the side. The olive oil, bread, fish and lemon juice combo makes this is a satisfying meal.
Dessert

Bicchierino di Sciacchetra e Cantuccini - Glass of Sciacchetra wine and Tuscan biscuits
I spot the famous Cinque Terre sciacchetra (shah-ket-tra) dessert wine on the menu so that is a definite pick too. Oh my goodness it's good. Not too sweet, has a slight orange peel taste, matches perfectly with the biscotti on the side. It has a memorable golden colour, very reminiscent of the beautiful sunsets that the area is known for. I am well and truly smashed.
Il Grottino
Where? Il Grottino (Riomaggiore, Italy) Map
When? Friday March 31, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
It's back to the coast and seafood is on the menu. Riomaggiore is a small town that is mostly just tourists, so I imagine the food here can be hit and miss. Nothing like a bit of food adventuring! I'm not too hungry so I've gone for something simple.
Secondo Piatto

Calamari e Seippie alla Griglia con Insalata Mista - grilled squid and cuttlefish with mixed salad
It is damn tasty. It's well seasoned, perhaps slightly overcooked but the olive oil, balsamic vinegar and lemon juice on the salad makes this an excellent, simple meal with great ingredients. Just what I needed.
Ristorante Trattoria Oberdan da Mario
Where? Ristorante Trattoria Oberdan da Mario (Bologna CBD, Bologna, Italy) Map Menu
When? Thursday March 30, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
Of course I have to have bolognese when I'm in Bologna. While the "spag bol" has become a favourite in many countries outside of Italy, that's not actually how they do it here! Chefs say that the sauce adheres better to the flat shape of the tagliatelle than the spaghetti and I am in no place to argue about this fine tradition.
I'd been wandering around the city center all afternoon and this place was on my way back to the hostel, slightly off the main road so it was quite quiet. I've arrived just at opening time, so the restaurant is relatively empty. I'm attracted by the sign out front that says pasta is handmade and freshly made. Excellent!
Antipasto

Beef tenderloin carpaccio on fresh salad and parmesan slivers
Beautifully sliced raw beef with cheese and salad, this at least gives me the first raw greens that I've had in ages. The lemon juice makes this spring to life.
Primo Piatti

Tagliatelle alla Bolognese
The tagliatelle arrives. The sauce is rich with wine and slow cooked ragu, and I love how the powdery Parmesiano reggiano disappears into the pasta as it melts. A glass of the house red is the perfect compliment to the meal and oh boy, it has gone straight to my head. Whee! I'm stuffed. I think I should skip dessert today.
La Lanterna Da Gas
Where? La Lanterna Da Gas (Santa Croce, Venice, Italy) Map
When? Wednesday March 29, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
This cosy little restaurant off the beaten track is well rated on various websites, and is a stone's throw from my hostel, so it's a goer. Instantly greeted by a free glass of prosecco - I foresee a good time. I've ordered a platter of deli meats and cheese for starters, and first course is black tagliatelle with prawns.
Antipasto

Selezione di Affettati e Formaggi - selection of cheeses and sliced meat
Oh my goodness. The platter arrives and there are three kinds of meat, three kinds of cheese, olives and pickled onion. I am in Italian heaven. This is so good. I greedily devour everything by myself, even though this has obviously been designed to share. I really like the intensity of the gruyere; that was the best thing on the plate.
Primo Piatto

Tagliatelle Nere con Gamberi Verdura di Stagioni - black tagliatelle with prawns and seasonal vegetables
Moments later, the tagliatelle arrives. What a wonderful aroma of onion, spices and seafood. The pasta is cooked perfectly and the prawns are seasoned well. The dish is rich with classic Mediterranean flavours and I'm so happy right now.
Dessert

Tiramisu
I've already had a tiramisu today but that was so six hours ago, so I order another one, especially since my mains were so impressive. I love it. It's got that home feel to it, and the flavour and texture is spot on.
As I go to pay, I'm given a free shot glass of limoncello. My head explodes. This is the best meal I've had in Italy so far.
Pizzeria OKE
Where? Pizzeria OKE (Dorsoduro, Venice, Italy) Map
When? Tuesday March 28, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
Venice isn't known for a particular dish per se, but like Como, their seafood is well renown. This particular restaurant I've come across has sardines and polenta "Venice style" so I give it a go. It's in the middle of Zattere, which is very popular with tourists wanting to catch the sunsets in Venice.
Appetizer

Venetian-Style Sardines with Polenta
The sardines are fresh and sweet, with that hint of saltiness and no fishiness. The polenta is not very well seasoned, but eating it with the sardines and the pickled vegetables solves that problem. Not too bad.
Pizza

Mangiafuoco - spicy salami, chilli pepper, paprika, Tobasco sauce
I'm at a pizzeria so I should really have some pizza too. I'm also in the mood for something spicy, which is not a particularly common element in Italian cooking. I learn quickly that eating pizza by yourself can be quite a mission, and of course, the more people there are, the greater the variety. Oh well. I finished the pizza, in any case. Also not too bad.
Borgo Sant'Agostino
Where? Borgo Sant'Agostino (Como, Italy) Map
When? Monday March 27, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
The sun has set, producing some beautiful colours in the sky over the water. A view by the lakeside, a romantic candle (for myself) and a glass of the house white. This is the life. I am having a good time.
Primo Piatto

Spaghetti ai Fruitti di Mare - spaghetti with mixed seafood
I've ordered the spaghetti with mixed seafood and wow it hits the spot. A rich tomato base with lots of fresh herbs and olive oil, and above all, a great selection of seafood: mussels, clams, octopus, squid, fish, shrimp and scallops. The shrimp is slightly overdone but I'm willing to let it slide because the rest of the dish is delicious. Any leftover sauce is greedily devoured with the bread on the side.
Dessert

Panna Cotta al Caramello
I had an orange yogurt gelato before dinner but that isn't stopping me from having another Italian classic dessert - panna cotta with caramel sauce. The all-important test of a good panna cotta is to jiggle the plate; if it jiggles with the plate and doesn't break, it's good. Mine is molto bene - very good!
La Cucina di Stella
Where? La Cucina di Stella (Como, Italy) Map
When? Sunday March 26, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
Being by the lakeside, it makes sense that Como is well regarded for its seafood. It's not quite tourist season at the moment, so it's very quiet in the town center, but I've gone with a well rated restaurant in the alleyways of Como.
Antipasto

Grilled Zucchini and Eggplant
The vegetables are drizzled generously with olive oil, and it's damn good olive oil because I can actually taste the olives. It's easy to see how good the produce is in Italy; there's lots of flavour in the zucchini and eggplant, as opposed to tasting like water.
Secondo Piatto

Triglie alla Griglia ai Profumi del Mediterraneo - grilled red mullets with Mediterranean spices
Sure enough, the underside of the fish is this wonderful red colour. The spices come through nicely, not overpowering the fish, and a sprinkle of lemon juice makes this tangy. It's a simple dish - perhaps too simple for the price - but the seafood is top quality.
Dessert

Tiramisu Tradizionale
I can't resist the temptation of tiramisu for dessert, and I am not disappointed. Soft and rich with the taste of rum and coffee chocolate, the dessert is everything a traditional tiramisu should be. It's important for the sponge to maintain integrity and not disintegrate, otherwise the texture feels unpleasant, like that of wet bread.
Ristorante Galleria
Where? Ristorante Galleria (Milan CBD, Milan, Italy) Map
When? Saturday March 25, 2017
Who With? Me
Food Style? Italian
I've only got one full day in Milan, and during my wanderings around the city, I've come upon the famous Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, home to a massive dome and plenty of fashionable brands like Louis Vuitton, Prada and Versace. I'm aware that the restaurants in this location are likely to be very touristy and perhaps not authentic, but I'm hungry and this one's got a 4.3 star rating on Google, so I give it a go. They're more touted for their pizzas and pastries, but I'm here for some risotto - or, as the Katering Show calls it, hot wet rice.
Primo Piatto

Risotto alla Milanese
I've gone for the Milanese specialty dish, risotto alla milanese, or saffron risotto. When it comes out, there is definitely that brilliant golden colour of saffron and I dig in. It's warm and cheesy, very rich and filling for the portion size. The risotto is harder than what I would cook at home, but I don't actually know what authentic consistency should be. It's actually quite nice with a bit of texture instead of it being soft. The bread by the side cleans up any residue sauce on the plate. Good times. I'm off to find some gelato.
