Texas
Friday April 12, 2024
It did feel like I was completely crazy for doing this so soon after returning to Canada, but less than a week after landing, I was back in the skies, on my way to Houston TX to chase the last total solar eclipse North America would get for 20 years. The trip started badly. I was supposed to catch the Dufferin night bus at 3.15am, which is when it was scheduled, but instead it drove past the bus stop at 3.07am, right in front of me, as I was running like a madman down Dupont Street. I ended up having to take a taxi to Yorkdale Mall to meet Carmen who would take me the rest of the way to Pearson.
The weather was beautiful as we landed in Houston. It was gloriously hot and sunny, and all the greenery of the oak trees was already in full force. We met up with Nancy after getting the rental car and then went for a walk around a local park. Then we got a late lunch, with massive Texan style portions, and then walked around Houston downtown. It felt really abandoned and almost unsafe as there were a lot of homeless people walking around and hardly any residents or office workers. We left soon after to have some classic Texan barbeque with Nancy’s son and daughter-in-law.
On our next day, we were up early to go to Chinatown and Little Saigon. Houston has a huge Vietnamese population, and it was surprising to me that it was an option for languages when trying to pay for parking. We stocked up on lunches for the next couple of days and then headed off to The Blind Goat.
It’s no surprise that I’m an avid watcher of MasterChef and one of my favourite seasons is the third season, aired in 2012. This season told the story of how Christine Ha, a Vietnamese woman from Houston, overcame the odds to win the competition even though she was blind. And finally, I had an excuse to come to Houston and try the food at her restaurant, The Blind Goat. As we entered, I noticed Chef Christine at the bar doing some work, and when I inquired with the waitress, she very kindly offered to bring her to meet us. We exchanged some pleasantries and she asked where we were from and why we were in town, and then Nancy blurted out something incredibly rude which I won’t repeat here, which really pissed me off, and soured the entire meeting. Despite all this, Chef Christine smiled and left us to enjoy our food, which I’ll write a blog piece about soon. We spent the rest of the day at Memorial Park, and then went for AYCE at a Hibachi grill.
We left for Austin early the next day, cautiously checking all weather forecasts and predictions for Monday. We arrived at McKinney State Park and spent a few hours walking around there before heading to the Capitol building where I met up with Ashley and Brian while the rest of the group split to do their own thing. I got her to sign The Poster, and then we went for ramen and bingsu.
On Monday morning, we were up at 7am to get breakfast in the hotel lobby. The forecast was looking dire for Austin but there was some hope to the north, closer to Dallas. I made the call to drive 2.5 hours north in the hopes we’d find some gaps in the clouds, and we ended up in Waxahachie. After walking for an hour and then having lunch, we decided to stay put. There were plenty of other eclipse watchers in the park by the creek, and the clouds were patchy enough that we would be able to get glimpses of the eclipse during the whole event.
What eventuated exceeded my expectations. The partial eclipse was as exciting as it’s ever been, with the moon becoming visible around 12.22pm. The dark portion grew in size over the next hour or so, and finally at 1.39pm, the last sliver of sunlight disappeared behind the moon and the area plunged into darkness as if it was night. The horizon had eerie red and yellow hues like dusk, the streetlights had switched on and more remarkably, the sun’s corona was in full view to the naked eye. Venus was visible too. This is a sight I’ll never forget. I can’t imagine how terrifying it must have been for early civilisations who had no idea what was happening. It looked like a dark hole had opened up in the sky, with a brilliant outer glow that screamed into the darkness. Baily’s Beads were visible too. It was incredibly emotional for me, months of planning and stressing over the weather had culminated in a huge success for today. I honestly could not believe that this had paid off. People were cheering and clapping at this phenomenal sight. Totality lasted for just over four minutes, and as the “diamond ring” flashed by, the area returned to normal as if nothing had ever happened, the shadows on the ground reappearing in full strength.
We began the drive back to Houston, stopping for ice cream along the way. We hit a thunderstorm briefly and by the time we got back, it was time for dinner. We got some seafood before retiring for the night. The bad weather continued onto Tuesday, but we spent most of it at Houston Space Center anyway. It was pretty amazing to see the Saturn V rockets up close, and really appreciate their size and detail. I impulse bought a miniblock model of the solar system as my souvenir for this trip.
All in all, this trip has been a huge success. All three things I had set out to do had been accomplished, despite all odds and logistical hurdles along the way. I’m exhausted. It’s time to properly have a break from travelling. I’ve been very lucky to catch two magnificent astronomical events in the last two weeks, and now, I’ve got a couple of years before the next total solar eclipse - in Spain!
Posted by Jeremy at 10:22pm on Friday April 12, 2024 :: 0 comments :: 
Reykjavik 2
Tuesday April 9, 2024
My second day trip was up to the Langjokull Glacier. A few hours north of Reyjavik, Langjokull is Iceland's second largest; the largest being Vatnajokull in the east. We stopped by Deildartunguhver, natural hot springs along the way, before continuing to Hraunfossar and Barnafoss Waterfalls, dramatic rapids and water flows caused by lava caverns. The water was exceptionally blue, and at this time of year, there was a little bit of ice on the paths around the area.
To ascend the glacier, we sat in a large converted missile carrier. These were decommissioned and exported to Iceland on the condition that they never leave the island and never used for war (that one's easy, said the tour guide, since they don't have an army). The pneumatic pipe system allows the driver to inflate and deflate the tyres depending on the type of snow on the road, and this is a uniquely Icelandic invention that is being used for research vehicles in Antarctica. The ascent took around an hour, and at the top, we shuffled into a metallic tube resembling a sewer.
The Langjokull ice cave is a man-made cavern drilled out eight years ago for tourism purposes. Due to the glacier movement, the tunnels are expected to disappear in five years' time, as crevasses and open and close as well. Various lights have been drilled into the ice to illuminate and highlight the blue colour of the glacier, as well as draw attention to the characteristic banding caused by the successive layering and compression of snow each year. The layer of ash caused by the Eyjafjallajokull eruption in 2010 was also clearly visible, and I thought that was pretty amazing.
We went out the way we came and descended in the converted missile carriers. The trip back to Reykjavik took around two hours, and since I had an early start the next day, I opted not to go on an aurora hunt that night. Instead, after grabbing some food for dinner, I walked around the park near the Perlan museum and spotted a few black and grey bunnies feeding in the fields!
My third and final day trip was to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. This would take us almost 11 hours, but we had so many stops along the way. After leaving Reykjavik around 9am, we drove for around 90 minutes to reach Gerðuberg Cliffs, large hexagonal columns in a row that reminded me very much of Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland. From there, we continued west to Ytri Tunga, famous for its seal colony and whale backbone sitting on the beach, then to Búðakirkja, the black church, and then to Arnarstapi. We did a short hike along the coast to see hundreds of seagulls nesting in the cliffs, as well as some dramatic rock formations like a stone bridge, very similar to what I saw in Newfoundland, and a couple of holes in rocks.
Continuing west, we saw Lóndrangar, a rock formation that looked like a viking ship. The locals called it an elf cathedral and an elf library. Our next stop was Djúpalónssandur, the black pebble beach, where they had four strength stones that they used to use to determine suitability to become fishermen - the first stone weighed 23kg, the second 54kg, the third 100kg and the fourth 154kg. The lore goes that the stone you could lift to your chest would determine how much you would be paid - the heavier the stone, the greater the pay. Hafþór Björnsson, famous for being "The Mountain" on Game of Thrones, often comes here to do exhibitions; for me, I was pleased enough to lift the 54kg stone, given I'm not really in the business of lifting more than my own weight. We stopped by the red church quickly, Ingjaldshólskirkja, before heading to our final destination for the day, Kirkjufellsfossar Waterfall and Kirkjufell Mountain.
Along the way, we had a quick toilet break, but some idiots on the tour decided it would be a good opportunity to order food from the cafe. We ended up waiting half an hour for them to get their food, instead of stopping for only ten minutes. Sometimes I really can't understand how inconsiderate people can be, with no sense of how the rest of the group is affected by these selfish actions.
The view of Kirkjufell Mountain towering over the waterfall is so iconic that they use it for every promotional image for the peninsula. It’s not a surprise though, it really is a beautiful sight. When we were there, it was covered in white snow. In summer, it’s green. If you come at the right time of day, the sun will create a rainbow in the spray of the waterfall. We drove back to Reykjavik, a two hour drive, and I tried to grab some food from two restaurants but they were both too busy, so I ended up at a seafood grill on the outskirts of town. I had to rush for my final aurora tour of the week! This one started out quite mellow but soon that brilliant glow intensified. It was bitterly cold and very windy but we stuck it out for as long as we could. We had both green and purple that night, and again, a surprising show given the Kp index was only 3.00.
On my last day in Reykjavik, I wandered around the park where the Perlan building is and then popped into town. I ended up at the Phallological Museum again to use their wifi and their toilet, and then went for lunch at one of the places I had missed out on the previous night. It was an uneventful bus ride to Keflavik airport and a five hour flight back to Toronto.
The last three months have had decent highs but huge lows. It’s taken a toll on me emotionally. I felt I did the best I could with the logistical changes, and then I was lucky to have the support of my family while I was laid off. The drama with Prytania continues - maybe I’ll write about this separately - and litigation is also in the works. I’m looking forward to a week off to recover, and then I’m in the skies again to chase the Great American Solar Eclipse of April 2024.
Posted by Jeremy at 11:47am on Tuesday April 9, 2024 :: 0 comments ::