Iguazu
Friday November 17, 2023
After a very early flight with much turbulence and old people coughing, we arrived into the town of Puerto Iguazu on the Argentinian side of the Iguazu River. We met with our driver and he took us to the Iguazu National Park where Phoebe and I immediately signed up for the boat tour.
It took a while for everything to get started, but after a short journey on the road, we walked down a small path to the pier and boarded the boats. We took off at speed up the river; the water had turned a brown colour from the amount of mud that the river had taken on from recent heavy rainfalls. I remember that feeling of awe as the falls slowly came into view. It just kept getting bigger and bigger, the thunderous roar of ten million litres of water rushing over the several cascades, the massive amount of spray hitting us as we drove in and out of the two areas. The sheer force of the falls is truly something you have to experience up close. By the end, we were soaked; and this may have been due to the captain being a bit cheeky by purposely steering through some big waves.
The rest of the day was spent walking the upper and lower trails of the falls. Part of those sections were closed due to damage from the flooding a few weeks ago, which was a pity, and the Devil’s Throat was also inaccessible. The viewpoints along the trails were excellent, and everything was so well placed and built. We also saw many reptiles and coatis!
We had a nice slow start the next day to go to the Brazilian side. Immigration was simple and now I’m at 32 countries visited. We spent a few hours at Parque das Aves, a fantastic bird park by the Brazilian falls. I thought it was so well planned - there’s a single linear route that takes you through a plethora of enclosures and you can really get up and close with some of them. The colours of the parakeets and macaws were absolutely stunning, as was the scarlet ibis.
We walked over to the Brazilian falls park and had lunch, then took the bus to the hiking area. While less impressive than the Argentinian side, the Brazilian side makes up for it with its proximity to the other set of falls and some stunning angles of the Devil’s Throat, which was also unfortunately closed from the flood damage. However, there’s one section where you can practically bathe in the spray of the falls, so I did just that, and got soaked. It was a welcome shower on a humid day that hit 37C.
Our driver took us for a quick tour of downtown, and then we got some food from a supermarket before heading to the airport. We’ve got some rough night flights to Patagonia over the next few hours!
Posted by Jeremy at 2:51am on Friday November 17, 2023 :: 0 comments :: 
Buenos Aires 2
Wednesday November 15, 2023
Caminito is a really colourful area spoiled by the dozens of tourists aimlessly blocking all the roads and taking pictures of the beautiful and vibrant façades. Of note is the balcony with a statue of Lionel Messi holding the World Cup, which has a queue of people waiting for the perfect Instagram moment. There’s lots of cool craft shops and a lot of touristy merchandise too, especially for the local soccer team, Boca.
We walked from Caminito to San Telmo and had lunch. The group had no cash so I had to pay for our empanadas and then had to go find an ATM to top up my own reserves. The first bank wouldn’t dispense any money so I had to walk further, but I managed to get some sweet peso bills and make it back to the market for more food. We continued north towards the Plaza de Mayo and the Obelisk. I wanted to check out the trendy Madero neighbourhood so we walked east, stopping at the Galerias Pacifico briefly.
We were still kinda full from lunch, so we decided to head back to the Airbnb and I was desperate to try some world-famous parrilla, so we split up and I went with Phoebe to La Cabrera. The wait was two hours, but ultimately worth it. I passed out from the steak overdose and the glass of Malbec.
The next day, we went around Floralis Generica and the Cemetery Recoleta, famous for the tomb of Eva Peron, the famous First Lady of Argentina, who has a movie about her life and was played by Madonna singing “Don’t Cry For Me Argentina”. Afterwards, we walked to Retiro station and took a train to Tigre, a town by the delta of the Parana River.
Tigre is quaint and picturesque. We had lunch at a cafe by the station; my Spanish was so bad that the waitress just straight up said she spoke English. We wandered around the craft market for a while and then took a boat back to Buenos Aires, exploring some of the many river ways in the area. My friends all fell asleep, which was an interesting way to spend $60 CAD.
We had to be up early the next day to go to the airport, so it was a quick solo dinner at a Mexican place before crashing for the night.
Posted by Jeremy at 9:09am on Wednesday November 15, 2023 :: 0 comments ::
Buenos Aires 1
Monday November 13, 2023
We arrived 45 minutes before schedule so we hung around the airport for a bit, cleaning ourselves up before heading to the Airbnb. The host wouldn’t let us have an early check in because of previous guests, but he let us drop our bags so we could walk around the city. We had some issues trying to get Uber to work; apparently the Argentinian government cracked down on it by banning credit card payments, so we opted to walk around instead. We headed towards Palermo, the Italian neighbourhood and walked through the Botanic Gardens and the Ecological Park where we spotted some wild maras, some flamingoes and a tapir.
We were wondering what to do next; we tried to use the subway but couldn’t figure out where to buy a card from. My poor Spanish skills were unable to find out from the transit operators, and we didn’t have cash, so we decided to stay in the area for lunch.
Since we were in the Italian neighbourhood, I decided to try this pasta restaurant which was pretty decent. The group was tired so we walked back and dozed off for a bit at the Airbnb. Eventually I decided I wanted some time to myself so I left the group and wandered over to Centennial Park where it was buzzing with activity. Locals were sitting on the grass, enjoying the beautiful weather. There was a busy flea market, a lot of dancing and people playing soccer, it was really cool to just walk around and people watch.
I ended up in Caballito, where I got dinner from a local burger chain. It was not great. My Spanish skills were really struggling and deep down inside I felt anxious about committing to spending so much time in Barcelona. But I know it’s a much more international city, especially with all the different European nations, so I should be okay. I made up for a disappointing dinner with a ball of chocolate ice cream with a dulce de leche center!
Today has been a slow start for the group, but we’re heading to Caminito and San Telmo Market.
Posted by Jeremy at 12:00pm on Monday November 13, 2023 :: 0 comments ::
A man. A plan. A canal.
Sunday November 12, 2023
Panama surprised me. It’s the thirtieth country I’ve visited! Our Uber driver, José (Phoebe pronounced it Josie), picked us up from Tocumen International Airport and we drove straight to Miraflores Locks, the Panama Canal Visitor’s Center. I thought there were no ships scheduled to pass through the canal today but we saw three; two on the old canal and one in the distance, on the expanded canal. The ships take around ten hours to complete the 50 mile journey from one end to the other, so things move very slowly but extremely precisely. On the old locks, eight locomotives drag the boat through each section as it provides more control than a tugboat. Once inside, the locks are filled with water to raise the ship to the next level, or drained to lower the ship, depending on the direction of travel. The process is fascinating to watch, and it truly is a marvel of modern engineering. After watching a couple of ships pass by, we saw a film about the construction of the canal, narrated by Morgan Freeman.
We rushed for dinner in one of the trendy neighbourhoods by the waterfront. The food was interesting, it was unlike any flavour profile I’ve experienced, and it was very rich. We had a bit of time to walk around before taking an Uber back to the airport. One of the places we passed through was a seafood market, very much like an open air hawker stall you’d find in Malaysia, but full of salespeople desperate to fill a seat. The market was suspiciously empty for a Saturday night, but since we’d eaten already, we didn’t need to bother with them. I thought the drive to the airport would take longer and security would be a while as well, but we were very early and now we’re just chilling before our flight to Buenos Aires.
Posted by Jeremy at 10:32am on Sunday November 12, 2023 :: 0 comments ::
Southbound
Sunday November 12, 2023
This year, I’m not flying south to spend the winter. Instead, I’m flying south for only two weeks, to four new countries, to explore some of the most beautiful parts of South America. Our first stop is Panama for a seven hour layover, where we’ll go see the canal and grab some food before getting back on the plane to Buenos Aires. I’ve been preparing for this trip for a while, and it’s required a lot of planning and organisation. I’ve been learning some rudimentary Spanish too - this’ll help me for this trip and hopefully my three months in Barcelona too.
The last few months have been incredibly busy. Our trip to Newfoundland was amazing, with a gruelling eight hour hike up and down Gros Morne, as well as a sneaky visit to the town of Dildo. Our trip to Kawartha Lakes for Thanksgiving was less amazing. We were supposed to go kayaking on the Sunday but due to rough conditions and the inexperience of the group in general, the rental company asked us to cancel the excursion but wouldn’t refund us. Instead they offered us a 50% discount on the next trip, which means we’d have to drive back out to take advantage of it. We did see some nice fall colours on the Trans Canada Hiking Trail, and some spectacular salmon jumps at Port Hope, but a few things went wrong that weekend and it was mildly frustrating.
Work has also been busy, with several difficult technical problems to solve. We’ve got a new programmer starting while I’m away, and I’m hoping that’ll alleviate some of our challenges. The industry is in a state of volatility at the moment, with thousands of layoffs happening all over the place. 2024 will probably be much of the same. I’m just glad my job is safe and I’m constantly reassured by our CEO that Prytania is going to be fine.
I went to the CNE this year with Hardeep. It was a welcome return to Exhibition Place, and the air show had been buzzing around Toronto skies a few days prior. The dog show was hilarious and adorable at the same time, and it was video games themed, so extra special. The food was as expected - expensive and nothing to write home about, but the most surprising experience was the audio sensory light exhibit in a dark room. It was a kaleidoscope of colourful patterns and fractals and geometry with a gentle soundtrack to accompany. A couple of weeks later, I tried to show him the salmon run on the Humber River, but we saw nothing. Instead, we went for dumplings in Chinatown and then went kayaking around the Toronto Islands. At night, we wandered around the city for Nuit Blanche, but nothing was notable.
I was at Hemingways with Emilio for the Rugby World Cup final, New Zealand versus South Africa. There were a lot of Springboks supporters, but there were a lot of black jerseys around as well. The atmosphere was fun and jovial, with a few “chaaa hooo!”s throughout the game, but alas, it wasn’t the result that the we were hoping for. Has to feel a bit bad for Sam Cane too. As soon as the final whistle blew, I was out of there.
Emotionally, it’s been a bit of a roller coaster too, with ups and downs. We had to cancel our work trip to Los Angeles because of the hotel workers’ strike. The darker days have forced me to bring out my sun lamp, to force my brain to start making the happy chemicals. We haven’t gotten our first snowfall yet, but after I get back from South America, it’ll only be a month until Christmas!
Posted by Jeremy at 1:03am on Sunday November 12, 2023 :: 0 comments ::